Pull the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) and
attached switch wire off of the top of the
damping cartridge. The ECU holds the bat-
tery, and houses two LEDs to indicate fork
lock out (red) and low battery (yellow). Be
careful not to damage the attached switch
wire when handling this piece.
3. Remove the old battery from the top of the
cartridge. Press the new battery into the bat-
tery connection on the top of the cartridge so
that the terminals mate. See Fig. 1.
Note: Do not remove the two hex head screws
adjacent to the battery terminals on the car-
tridge outer cap for any reason. These are
used for factory assembly of the cartridge
only. Besides battery replacement, none of
the ELO's electronics are user serviceable.
4. If necessary, rotate the cartridge outer cap
and battery so that the three metal pins are
on the right side of the battery and the two
metal pins are on the left. This will assure the
correct position of the electronic control unit
(ECU). This can best be done if the fork is
still fully compressed.
5. Look at the bottom of the ECU to see that
one side has three holes and the other has
only two. See Fig. 2. With the fork still com-
pressed, press the ECU into the top of the
cartridge so that the sockets on the ECU and
the pins on the top of the cartridge mate. See
Fig. 3. The switch wire should point directly
forward out of the top of the ECU.
6. Using the upper collar, press down on the
flange on the outside of the ECU and fully
extend the fork by lifting up on the handle-
bars. Using the 40mm wrench, reinstall the
upper collar with a drop of Loctite 242 (blue)
on the threads and torque to 250 In-Lbs (28
Nm).
7. VERY IMPORTANT! Apply a drop of Loctite
242 (blue) to the fork upper clamp bolt
threads and tighten to 55-65 In-Lbs
(6.25–7.25 Nm).
LEFTY CABLE ROUTING
The front brake line should not go through the
fork clamps, but rather to the outside of the
Lefty leg and behind to the disc brake. See
Fig. 5. Note that the zip tie loops need to be
loose enough to allow the brake line to slide
freely up and down.
The rear brake line and rear derailleur cable
should be run between the upper and lower
Fig.5
Front
Brake
Line
fork clamps, between the bike's head tube
and the Lefty leg.
SPRING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
FOR ALL LEFTY FORKS
Before the bike is ridden, the spring preload
must be adjusted to suit the weight of the
rider. If too much preload is applied, the sus-
pension will be stiff and unresponsive; too lit-
tle preload and the rider may feel "bouncing"
while climbing or sprinting, and may tend to
bottom out the shock (compress it to the limit
of its travel) on large bumps. The HeadShok
Lefty ELO and DLR use an air spring while
the Lefty M fork uses the Advanced Spring
System's coil spring and MicroCellular
Urethane (MCU) combination. The following
procedures are for initial setup only. We
encourage riders to experiment with different
preloads to achieve their optimal setting.
Caution: The upper collar with 40mm wrench
flats on the top of the Lefty DLR and Lefty M is
not for any kind of adjustment, it is to allow the
removal and service of the fork's internals and
removal of the leg from the top crown. It should
not be necessary to loosen or remove this upper
collar. On the Lefty ELO, this upper collar should
be removed only to change the battery in the
electronic control unit. If the upper collar is
loosened or removed, it should be reinstalled
with a drop of Loctite 242 (blue) on the threads
and torqued to 250 In-Lbs (28 Nm).
7