Chef'sChoice EdgeCraft E1520 Manuel page 12

STEP 2: STROPPING/POLISHING, STAGE 3
In Stage 3 make three (3) to four (4) pairs of slow pulls each about 4 seconds, alternating
in the left and right slots.
Follow this, still in Stage 3, with three (3) pairs of faster pulls each about 1-2 seconds,
alternating in the left and right slots. There should not be a noticeable burr along the edge.
Test blade for sharpness. It should be incredibly sharp. If not sharp repeat this Step 2.
RESHARPENING EUROPEAN/AMERICAN KNIVES
Re-sharpen the European/American knives whenever practical using just Stage 3
following the instructions (Step 2) above. When that fails to quickly re-sharpen, return to
Stage 2 and make two or three pairs of alternating pulls. Check for a burr along the edge
and when a burr exists proceed again to Stage 3 following the instructions in the
preceding section.
CONVERTING EUROPEAN/AMERICAN KNIFE
EDGE TO 15 DEGREE ASIAN STYLE EDGE
With the Model E1520 you can convert any European or American style knives that are
used primarily for light duty work to the 15 degree Asian edge. For example you might
consider converting light duty paring knives and thin utility blades to 15 degrees. To make
this conversion follow the Instructions for Sharpening Asian Blades, pages 7 to 9. Initial
sharpening in Stage 1 will take longer than you might expect but subsequent resharpening
time will be normal.
PROCEDURE FOR SHARPENING
Serrated blades are similar to saw blades with scalloped depressions and a series of
pointed teeth. In normal use the pointed teeth do most of the cutting.
Serrated blades of all types can be sharpened in the EdgeCraft
use only Stage 3 (Figure 14) which will sharpen the teeth of the serrations and develop
microblades along the edge of these teeth. Generally five (5) to ten (10) pairs of
alternating pulls in left and right slots of Stage 3 will be adequate. If the knife is very dull
more pulls will be needed. If the knife edge has been severely damaged thru use make one
fast pull (2-3 seconds for an 8" blade) in each of the right and left slots of Stage 2, then
make a series of pulls in Stage 3, alternating right and left slots. Excessive use of Stage 2
will remove more metal along the edge than is necessary in order to sharpen the teeth.
Because serrated blades are saw-like structures, the edges will never appear to be as "sharp"
as the edge on a straight edge knife. However, their tooth-like structure can be helpful – for
example to break the skin on hard crusty foods or to cut tough paper based materials.
SERRATED BLADES
English — 12
®
Model E1520. However,
Figure 14. Use only Stage 3 for sharpening
serrated knives.