Multiplex PICO CUB Notice De Montage page 31

Connect the power cables from the motor to the speed controller,
and stow the wires away neatly so as to save space. Connect the
controller to the receiver and the flight battery, and carry out an
initial "test-run" of the working systems. Check the direction of
rotation of the motor, and the "sense" of the rudder and elevator
(right stick = right rudder etc.). Correct the control surface neutrals
if necessary. To do this first set the servo output arms to neutral,
and then adjust the control surfaces using the pushrod connectors
32 - 34 (using the allen key 35).
The last job is to mount the propeller 70 on the output shaft:
start by sanding the motor shaft using fine abrasive paper. Apply
a little 5-minute epoxy to the propeller hub on the tip of a pin,
then push the propeller onto the shaft as far as it will go.
Wait until the epoxy has set hard before running the motor.
Wing struts, aerobatics and flight loads
The PiCO Cub is designed primarily as a gentle park-fly model,
and for indoor flying in large halls. In either case the wings do not
need the additional strength afforded by working struts. However,
if you intend flying simple aerobatics with your PiCO Cub, or if
relatively abrupt pull-out manoeuvres are likely because you are
going to use the model for teacher-pupil flying, we recommend
that you install wing struts, otherwise the wings could fail under
stress in the air.
The first step is to cut slots in the wing for the horns 38. They
should be located 25 cm from the centre of the wing, 5 cm back
from the wing leading edge, and pointing towards the rear
undercarriage mounting. Cut the slots with a balsa knife, tease
out the foam with a small screwdriver, and then glue the horns in
the slots using 5-minute epoxy. Cut two 500 mm lengths of 0.8
mm Ø steel wire 55, and solder a threaded coupler 36 to one end
of each. Screw the M2 clevises 37 on the couplers, and connect
them to the horns mounted in the wings. Fit the other end of the
wire strut in the slot for the rear undercarriage leg, where it is
held in place by the same rubber bands. Bend the wire slightly on
each side of the fuselage so that the struts run straight from the
fuselage to the wing. Adjust the clevises so that the wing is under
no more than very slight downward tension.
Even with the struts fitted, the CUB is not permitted to fly
negative-G manoeuvres - this applies to full-size aircraft of
the same class, too. (Negative manoeuvres: inverted flight,
outside loops etc.)
Finally - giving the model that finishing touch:
The kit is supplied with a decal sheet, part 2. Cut out the individual
name placards and emblems and apply them to the model in the
arrangement shown in the illustrations, or use your own
imagination. The cabin window decals include marks which will
help you position them correctly. You will see a fine line on either
side of the side windows, and these should be cut out together
with the decals. Position the rear line on the edge of the fuselage.
The front lines are a guide to the location of the front screen.
Fig. 24
Centre of Gravity (CG), control surface travels:
As with all aircraft, your "PiCO Cub" offers inherently stable flying
characteristics, but only if balanced at the correct point. Assemble
the model completely, ready to fly, and install the flight battery.
Support the model under the wing spar on two fingertips. The
model should now balance level, i.e. should not tip forward or
back.
(CG = 60 mm aft of the wing root leading edge, +/- 5 mm).
If you need to correct the CG, it is permissible to add a few
grammes of lead ballast to the nose or tail.
Fig. 25
The travel of the control surfaces should be as follows, measured
at the widest point of the panels:
Rudder =
Elevator =
Pre-flight preparations
Wait for a day with flat calm conditions, or only a very slight breeze.
The evening hours often provide the most favourable conditions.
Be sure to carry out a range check before attempting the first
flight:
Charge up the transmitter and flight batteries in the prescribed
manner. Before you switch on the transmitter, ensure that no other
modeller is already using that channel.
Collapse the transmitter aerial completely, and ask your assistant
to walk away from the model holding the transmitter.
Ask your assistant to operate one control function constantly,
while you watch the servos carefully: the non-controlled one
should remain stationary up to a distance of about 80 m, and the
controlled one should follow the transmitter stick movements
smoothly and immediately. This test only gives valid results if the
radio band is clear of interference, and if no other radio control
systems are in use, even on other channels. Repeat the test with
the motor running. The effective range should still be at least 70m.
If you are not sure that all is well, do not be tempted to fly the
model. Send the entire system, complete with battery, switch
harness and servos, to the RC system manufacturer's Service
Department for checking.
The first flight ...
Hand-glides do not give useful results with this model.
The model should be hand-launched (always into the wind).
If you have not flown a radio-controlled model before, please
ask an experienced pilot to help during the initial stages.
Fig. 26
Allow the model to climb to a safe altitude, then adjust the controls
using the trim sliders on the transmitter until the model flies
straight ahead "hands off" .
At a safe height switch the motor off and fly the model on the
glide to get a "feel" for the model's control response on the landing
approach. Carry out a series of simulated landing approaches at
a reasonable height, so that you will be prepared for the landing
when the flight pack actually runs out.
Until you are confident of the model's control response, do not
attempt tight turns close to the ground, especially when you are
landing. It is far better to land safely some distance away, than to
force the model back to your feet and in so doing crash it.
If the landing is not quite perfect ...
If the model suffers a really hard landing it may well suffer damage;
one of the tail panels or even a wing may break off entirely. Don't
panic: five-minute epoxy can be used on the field to get you back
in the air quickly.
Apply a little 5-minute epoxy to the broken surfaces, push the
parts together and hold for about five minutes. Leave the glue to
cure for a further 10 minutes - and you're ready to fly again.
Don't use too much epoxy; excess glue doesn't make the joint
stronger, and it usually looks awful.
If you have time to repair the joint at your leisure, it is better to
use white glue to re-join the broken parts. White glue makes an
almost invisible joint, but you must leave the glue overnight to
harden, and this means jigging or packing the model up to
prevent the parts slipping out of alignment.
+/- 18 mm
+/- 12 mm
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