Important - GRAUPNER MICRO MAGIC Instructions D'utilisation

intend to install a sail servo other than those specified. Mark the outline of the servo opening and cut it out
using a fretsaw. Position the opening so that the servo pivot axis will coincide with the hull centreline.
All the bulkheads and reinforcements can now be
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glued under the deck (part 14). Taper the cockpit
bulkhead (part 15) using a sanding block, so that it
fits snugly in the channel in the deck. Glue the
bulkhead in place permanently when you are
satisfied. Glue the two reinforcements (parts 17 +
18) to the rudder servo plate (part 16), and insert
the rudder servo plate assembly in the cockpit
bulkhead. If the plate does not fit, adjust the slot in
the bulkhead as
permanently to the bulkhead when the fit is
correct. NOTE: the semi-circular lug should rest
snugly on the deck (cockpit). If there is a gap, fill it
with UHU acrylit.
Glue the second rudder bush reinforcement (part
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10) over the hole for the rudder bush.
Glue the central bulkhead (part 19) to the recess
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in the canopy opening. Check that the bulkhead is
central and at right-angles to the surface of the
deck.
Glue the two lower shroud reinforcements (part
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20) to the deck.
Glue the four canopy latch reinforcements (part
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21) at the bottom, flush with the recess in the
opening. The position is shown on the plan, but
you can change the location if you wish. TIP: mark
the position of the reinforcements on the outside of
the deck using a felt-tip pen. This avoids problems
later when you are fitting the turnbuckles (part 47),
as their retaining screws have to be fitted into the
reinforcements. NOTE: the canopy (part 55) is
designed in such a way that it will normally be held
securely by its fit in the deck. However, for
competition work or harsh sailing conditions we
would always recommend that you install the
supplementary canopy latches.
Glue the stern reinforcement (part 22) to the deck,
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keeping it central.
reinforcements
IMPORTANT: remember to maintain the 3 mm
gap between the plywood parts and the deck
channel, as the hull has to be glued in that space
(see photo). Sand the deck back flush with the
wood.
Sand one end of the central girder (part 25) to match the shape of the bow, cut it to a length of 210 mm,
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and glue it to the deck. IMPORTANT: ensure that the girder does not foul the keel / mast socket; it should
end in front of this.
The holes for the M2 captive nuts (part 24) can now be drilled; the positions are indicated by the markings
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on the deck. Drill a 2 mm Ø hole at each marked point, cutting through the deck and the reinforcement
together. Now carefully open up the holes from the underside using a 4.2 mm Ø drill, cutting only through
the wood, so that the cylindrical spigots of the M2 captive nuts (part 24) fit in them. The captive nuts can
now be pressed into the wood. TIP: water pump pliers are very good for this, but remember to protect the
ABS deck with a piece of scrap wood, otherwise the serrations of the plier jaws will mark the ABS. Secure
the captive nuts with a drop of thin cyano first, then apply a fillet of UHU acrylit, so that they cannot possibly
work loose. IMPORTANT: take care not to allow excess adhesive to run into the threaded part of the nuts.
NOTE: if you accidentally drill right through the deck, you can glue the four 7 Ø / 2.1 Ø mm washers
(supplied) on top; these will conceal the oversized holes.
The next step is to cut the slot in the deck for the keel attachment: the length is indicated by the two
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marked points. The slot should be between 2.5 mm and 3 mm wide. TIP: drill 2.5 mm Ø holes in the deck
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
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required. Glue the
Glue the stern
(part 23) to the
plate
side
deck.
21
#0057088
11/2006