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A push stick should be 12 in. or longer and be made of a sturdy, rigid material
that doesn't flex or shatter if it contacts the bit or blade. The notch must be
shorter than workpiece depth, but not so short that you would lose control of
the workpiece. The notch is a 90º cutout at the end of the push stick. This
cutout is rotated back into the push stick at a 30º to 40º angle.
A push block has a handle and a friction pad on
the base. You press a push block down onto a flat-
topped workpiece to control and guide it through
the benchtop jointer. The friction pad prevents the
workpiece from moving or shifting unexpectedly
while being cut. Advanced commercial models
have an adjustable slot that allows the exposed
bit or blade to pass under the push block without touching it.
Do not position the push block on the workpiece so it will pass over the
exposed bit or blade or collide with a safety guard. The exception is if the cut is
shallower than the workpiece depth, so the bit or blade are not exposed.
A push block may be used with a second push block or a push stick.
BEFORE THE FIRST CUT
1.
Make sure the power is off and remove the safety key from the power
switch (I).
2.
Turn the handwheel counterclockwise to lower the infeed table.
3.
Stand in front of the Infeed table depth gauge (E) while lowering the table
to make sure you are reading the gauge correctly.
a.
Never make a jointing cut deeper than 1/8 in. per pass.
4.
Loosen the fence tilting handle (R) and adjust the angle. Check the angle
gauge (M). Lock the fence tilting handle.
5.
Loosen the fence sliding locking handle and move the fence until the
bottom is touching the table. Lock the handle.
6.
Verify the knife height is even with the outfeed table by checking it with a
steel straight edge. See
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Benchtop Jointer
Adjusting the knife height
Care & Maintenance
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Figure 9
Figure 10
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