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Making an auxiliary fence
(Fig . 38)
Depending on the size and position of the
workpiece, certain unusual cuts may benefit
from the additional support that can be
provided by an auxiliary fence. The holes
provided in the fence are used to secure an
auxiliary fence in place.
WARNING
bevel is set at 0° . When making a bevel cut,
the auxiliary fence MUST be removed.
To attach the auxiliary fence to the saw:
Make sure the fence lock screws are tightened
securely.
1. Place one 10-in. long piece of wood against the miter fence and align it with the left edge
of the miter saw base.
The appropriate height and thickness of the fence will vary, based on the miter
NOTICE
angle and the material being cut.
2. Clamp the wood tightly against the fence and drive wood screws from the back of the
fence through the two holes and into the auxiliary fence. If necessary, first drill a pilot hole
into the wood to prevent splitting. Remove the clamp when finished.
Make sure that the screws you use to attach the auxiliary fence do not pass
NOTICE
through the front face of the fence and the length of the screws will not put them
in the path of the blade at any angle.
3. Make a full left miter cut through the auxiliary fence.
Check for interference between the auxiliary fence and the lower blade guard.
NOTICE
Correct any interference before proceeding.
4. Repeat these steps with the second board by aligning it with the right side of the miter saw
base and making a full right miter cut through the auxiliary fence.
Cutting grooves
1. See "Depth-of-cut adjustment" to set the desired depth of cut.
2. When cutting grooves, a wooden spacer must be placed between the workpiece and the
fence for a consistent length of cut in the workpiece. Use the work clamp to clamp the
spacer and another suitable clamp to clamp the workpiece.
3. Make the slide cut at the desired depth (see "To slide cut").
The auxiliary fence can
only be used when the
Fig . 38
Auxiliary
fence
Align board with
edge of miter table
37
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