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carefully and tack them in place with a few drops of cyano glue. Allow the cyano to set hard, then check
that everything is aligned correctly before applying a fillet of UHU acrylit along all the joints with the hull to
form a permanent bond. NOTE: ensure that the joint between the stern tube and the hull is watertight.
9.
Slip the rudder blade (part 22) into the rudder bush. Prepare the tiller (part 23) by pushing the collet (part
24) into the lever and fitting the retaining screw (part 25). Now fit the tiller on the rudder shaft, set every-
thing central and tighten the retaining screw.
10.
The next step is to assemble the servo mount for the rudder servo (part 26). This involves gluing the front
panel (part 28) and the rear panel (part 29) to the base plate (part 27), then adding the two side panels
(parts 30). NOTE: the two sides are different in height, matching the height of the front and rear parts.
11.
Locate the rubber grommets and brass spacer sleeves supplied with the rudder servo, press them into the
servo mounting lugs, then fix the servo to the servo mount using the screws supplied in the servo acces-
sory pack. The servo assembly can now be glued centrally in the hull, as shown on the plan.
12.
Drill out one hole in the servo output arm and the tiller to 2 mm Ø, and install the swivel pushrod connec-
tors (parts 31) in the holes. Complete each swivel connector with a grubscrew (part 32) and a retaining nut
(part 33).
13.
Cut the rudder pushrod (part 34) to the required length and fit it through the cross-hole in both swivel con-
nectors. Set the servo and the rudder exactly to centre, then tighten the grubscrews in the connectors
firmly.
14.
Assemble the reinforcing frame by placing the two side panels (parts 35) and the rear panel (part 36) to-
gether. Hold the parts together on the underside with adhesive tape, and run glue along the joints. Now fit
the cross-struts 1 to 5 (parts 37 to 41) in the appropriate slots and glue them in place.
15.
Drill a 4 mm Ø hole in the hull floor in front of the motor and glue the intake nipple for the water pump (part
42) in it. NOTE: take care to produce a watertight joint.
16.
The reinforcing frame can now be glued in the hull, but before you do this sand the outside edges of the
frame to a slightly rounded profile, which should fit neatly in the semi-circular channel inside the hull.
NOTE: it is essential that the hull should not be distorted or twisted when the frame is glued in place, as
the frame will then fix the distortion permanently - it will be impossible to correct it later. TIP: don't glue the
whole frame in place at once: just glue a short section, check that the hull is straight, then continue. This
makes it easier to avoid the danger of a warped hull.
17.
Drill a central 4 mm Ø hole close to the keel (around 15 mm forward of the motor) to take the water intake
nipple (part 42), then glue the nipple in the hole, once again taking care to produce a watertight joint.
18.
Cut the short and long water hoses (parts 43 and 44) to length, and push the short hose onto the water
intake nipple. IMPORTANT: it must not be able to slip off the nipple. Secure it with a drop of cyano, or
wrap a cable-tie round it for security. The same applies - of course - to all other hose connections in the
model.
19.
Solder a suppressor capacitor (part 46) to the terminals of the water pump (part 45), together with two 10
cm lengths of high-flex copper cable (part 47) and a G2 connector (part 48). The electrical arrangement is
virtually the same as that shown in the wiring diagram for the electric drive motor.
20.
Connect the short length of water hose to the central nipple on the water pump, and the long hose to the
nipple on the side of the unit. The water pump can now be fixed to the hull floor using a piece of Velcro
tape (part 49) about 30 mm long.
21.
At this stage the deck (part 50) can be glued to the hull. NOTE: the correct location for the deck is at the
rubbing strake level. TIP: allow thin cyano or UHU plast spezial to run along the joint lines, tilting the boat
to encourage it to flow. Wait for the glue to cure, then repeat the procedure until there is no hint of a gap
along the joints. NOTE: do not use too much adhesive, as there is always a risk that the excess will run
onto the inside of the hull. If you are using UHU plast spezial there is also the danger that it will attack the
ABS material (hull and deck) and soften it. You can avoid this by waiting until each application of glue is
cured before applying more.
22.
Assemble the forward platform by gluing the front panel (part 52) and back panel (part 53) to the base
plate (part 51). Sand the front faces of the two side panels (parts 54) at an angle so that they fit between
the front and rear panels, then glue them in place permanently.
23.
Place the platform on the deck, locate the 2 mm Ø holes in the platform and continue them through the
deck.
24.
The fire monitor (part 55) can now be assembled as described in the instructions supplied with the set.
Glue the hose running from the intake nipple (part 42) to the bottom of the fire monitor, then fit the monitor
through the platform and secure it with the short piece of retaining tube (part 56).
25.
Bend the railing (part 57) to the shape shown on the plan. TIP: to achieve neat bends in the brass rod the
material should be curved round a piece of dowel or a round writing instrument (e.g. ball-point pen).
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
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#0058986
20
08/2008
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