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Important note
This model is not made of styrofoam™, and it is not
possible to glue the material using white glue or epoxy.
Please be sure to use cyano-acrylate glue exclusively,
preferably in conjunction with cyano activator (kicker). We
recommend medium-viscosity cyano. This is the
procedure: spray cyano activator on one face of the
Elapor®; allow it to air-dry, then apply cyano adhesive to
the other face. Join the parts, immediately position them
accurately, and wait a few seconds for the glue to harden.
Please take care when handling cyano-acrylate adhesives.
These materials harden in seconds, so don't get them on
your fingers or other parts of the body. We strongly
recommend the use of goggles to protect your eyes. Keep
the adhesive out of the reach of children.
1. Before assembling the model
Check the contents of your kit.
You will find Figs. 1 + 2 + 3 and the Parts List helpful here.
Note: the Parts List states the correct length of the control
"snakes", but they are supplied oversized. You will therefore
find the following lengths in the kit:
2 off
3/2 Ø x 825 mm snake outer sleeve
1 off
3/2 Ø x 750 mm snake outer sleeve
2 off
2/1 Ø x 820 mm snake inner tube
1 off
2/1 Ø x 600 mm snake inner tube
Electric or glow version?
The Magister kit can be assembled either as an electric-
powered model or a glow-powered version. The parts which
differ in the two versions are the cowl, the fuselage nose, the
motor mount and various internal parts such as fueltank and
speed controller. The building instructions describe in parallel
how to make both versions - text and pictures which are not
specifically marked apply to both versions.
The texts and pictures marked "GP" apply to the glow version
only.
If you are a newcomer to model flying and have no experience
handling internal combustion engines, we recommend that you
complete the model with an electric power system. Compared
with a glowplug motor an electric power system has the great
advantage of excellent reliability and simple maintenance: just
charge the batteries, and away you go.
2. Preparing the control "snakes"
The snake outer and inner tubes should first be cut to the lengths
stated in the next column. This is done by placing the tubes on
a hard surface and notching them all round using a balsa knife
(roll it tube to and fro under the blade), after which the excess
can simply be broken off. Write the purpose of tube on a scrap
of masking tape and stick the tape to the tubes.
3/2 mm Ø snake outer sleeves
825 mm:
53 575 mm
825 mm:
51 408 mm
750 mm:
52 440 mm
2/1 mm Ø snake outer sleeves
820 mm:
57 460 mm
820 mm:
56 408 mm
600 mm:
58 600 mm
The short pieces left over are not required for the model.
Fig. 3
24
and
54 250 mm
and
51 408 mm
and
55 305 mm
and
59 350 mm
and
56 408 mm
Permax 680/8.4 V geared motor
For the electric version we recommend this geared motor.
Assemble the gearbox as described in the instructions supplied
with it. Use the propeller and spinner supplied in the set.
Attach the gearbox housing to the electric motor bulkhead 43
using three screws (included in the power set). Fix the two motor
mounts 41 to the motor bulkhead using the screws 34. Note
the installed position of the motor!
Fig. 04
Fix the motor mounts 41 to the firewall 42 using the screws 34.
Fig. 05
Attach the bulkhead braces 40 to the firewall 42 using the screws
34.
Fig. 08
Preparing the motor mount
GP:
Attach the two motor mounts 41 to the motor using two screws
34 on each side. You will need to drill 2.5 mm Ø holes
beforehand to accept the screws.
Position the motor on the two motor mounts so that there is
about 5 mm clearance to the fuselage nose when the spinner
is fitted.
Fig. 06 GP
GP:
Fix the motor mounts 41 to the firewall 42 using the screws 34.
Fig. 07 GP
Preparing the wing and tailplane retainer plates
Roughen the joint surfaces of the hank nuts 33 using coarse
abrasive paper and glue them in the holes in the tailplane
retainer plate 82 using 5-minute epoxy.
Fig. 09
Press the captive nuts 32 into the wing retainer plate 80 and
secure them with 5-minute epoxy.
Fig. 10
Preparing the main undercarriage mount
Glue the channeled undercarriage rail 83 and the two support
blocks 84 to the retainer plate 81 using 5-minute epoxy, cyano
or white glue. Hold the parts together using screw-clamps or a
vice until the glue has set hard.
Fig. 11
Mark a point 12.5 mm from each end of the channel in the rail
83. Drill two 4 mm Ø holes at right-angles through the rail
channel and the two support blocks 84, one at the front of the
channel, one at the rear.
Figs. 12 + 13
Check that the undercarriage legs 61 fit correctly, and round
off the edges of the holes in the channeled rail to allow for the
radius of the bends. It should be possible to press the two legs
into the channel full-depth, so that they lie flush at the top.
Preparing the fuselage
If you are making the electric version, open up the cooling slots
in the left and right fuselage shells 3 and 4. This is easiest with
a sharp balsa knife and a small round file.
Fig. 14:
GP:
The glow fuselage nose 7 has to be cut away along the recessed
lines to clear your motor. Use a sharp balsa knife for this, and
# 33 2671
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