OVEN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION (fig. 2)
4.
Go through the holes again into which the 2 stay bolts 13 will be inserted.
5.
Put on the table top (5), without using any mortar, all the elements of the
oven.
6.
You will notice that the oven elements have a groove on the sides; place
the ceramic fiber cord inside the groove and apply a thin layer of the heat-
resistant silicon supplied over it. Now join the elements together and add or
remove silicone where you deem necessary so that the joints are well covered.
7.
Put on the table top (5), the ceramic fibre mattress, then the parts no. 10a
and 11a.
8.
The walls no. 9a and 12d have to be fixed with silicon.
9.
Join all the elements with the connecting rod (13). Grasp them moderately.
When the oven is hot the connecting rods become longer but in this phase do
not grasp them further on.
10.
At the end fix the smoke register (26) in correspondence of the of the
smoke exit hole.
11.
A tin marked „Elastogum" contains an elastic moisture-repellent and heat-
resistance product which must be applied to all the external oven joints with a
brush before painting the oven with its final finish.
12.
On the hood, fasten the tag (ON-OFF) which indicates if the damper is open
or closed. Fill the joints of oven with normal cement and fireclay mixture.
ASSEMBLING THE WALLS (Fig. 3)
13.
Mount the bottom walls 19a and 19b and the side walls 18 and 20. For a
more accurate assembly, place the walls dry on the surface and insert the wood-
holder. This will give the proper distance of about 74 cm between the side walls.
Remove the wood-holder and fix the walls, spreading a thin layer of a refractory
cement and earth mixture on the connecting points.
ATTENTION: The two openings in wall 19a behind walls 21d must remain open
to let air through and to cool the back wall. Now insert the fireplace base
elements (21b-21c). Neither the base (21b-21c) nor walls (21d) must be fixed
with the mixture. They just stand.
Small cracks on the fireplace (18-19s-19b-20-21b-21c-21d-24) are a result
of normal expansion and do not in any way compromise the proper
operation of the barbecue.
PHASE 3A (Fig. 3a)
14.
Spread an even layer of cement and fireclay mixture on the top of the walls
(18-19b-20) and level it. Lay the ring (24).
15.
Install the metal hood (24A) that assure a better resistance in case of
strong fire.
16.
Turn the cement hood (27) upside down and fix the metal hood (24A)
paying attention to leave about 2 cm on every side for air circulation.
17.
Lay some more cement mixture on the rings (24-25) and fasten the hoods
27.
18.
Proceed in the same manner to install the flue elements 28 and chimney
cap 29.
19.
WORKTOP COVERING: TOPS KIT (fig. 5)
If the cooking top of the barbecue you have bought is divided into two different
layers:
•
a top layer which is about 3 cm (TOPS KIT) (a,b,c)
•
a bottom layer which is about 7 cm (support in a conglomerate mix) (4)
you must proceed as follows: for aesthetic reasons the tops are always slightly
bigger than those of the cement mix supports; it is advisable to first position the
walls of the fireplace and the covering kits dry before final fixing so as to have
exactly the same amount projecting around the whole perimeter. You can now
fix the covering kit on the support using a 50% ordinary cement and 50% fine
sand mortar mix or ordinary tile glue.
When the tops are dry, clean them well with steel wool, dust them and give a
first coat of insulating material supplied and a second coat once the first is dry to
have a polished effect. Repeat once a year.
The primer will protect against the weather and grease marks and anything else
that can be a result of cooking, and it brightens up the colour.
20.
Insert the ash tray (22), the cast-iron grid (23) and the wood-holder (a).
ASSEMBLING THE ACCESSORIES
A.
Stainless-steel cooking grill.
B.
Grill tools: tongs brush, scraper.
D. Adjustable electric spit with dripping-pan.
Bioplatt: for cooking on a hot stone.
Wood-holder.
Oven's door made from cast-iron (fig. 4)
All the accessories are optional.
a. The grill and the Bioplatt can be adjusted in height for different types of
cooking.
b. The tools are hung on their holder, which is fastened with the relevant screws
supplied.
OVEN'S DOOR MADE FROM CAST-IRON (Fig. 4)
It is a door made from cast-iron including a flap with fire-resistant glass. It has
been specially developed to prevent any heat dispersion and to allow a more
rational use of the oven. For its installation, fix it to the cement structure using
the proper brass screws and "fisher" which are delivered as standard kit. Take
special care in closing the clearance by using silicon resisting to high
temperatures.
FNISHING
•
Allow the sealing compounds and the cement mix used in the joints to dry
for at least 4 days and prevent the structure from getting wet.
•
In the case of barbecues purchased already finished, it is sufficient to
retouch the sealing with the colour provided and to let it dry for at least one day.
•
In the case of unfinished barbecues, we recommend that you paint it with
the proper outdoor wall-paint – available on request – or with equivalent resilient
paint of the quarz rolled type, resistant to sudden changes in temperature.
•
These waterproofing treatments are meant to prevent the formation of
unsightly cracks due to sudden rises in temperature and to the moisture present
in outdoor constructions.
•
Any further covering of insulation over the outer side of the oven will just
emphasize the already outstanding performances of the oven itself, mainly
referred to its capacity of keeping the inner hot temperature for long time.
•
The above mentioned covering can be effected on the installation place by
means of ceramic fibre or rock-fibre, which will have to be then plastered and
varnished.
•
If you paint the barbecue with the paint supplied by us, the primer should
be allowed to thoroughly. Proceed with a first brushed coat; allow the paint to
dry, then apply a second coat by brush.
•
For a classic stippled finish, use a normal paint roller immediately over the
brushedon coat of paint. This should only be done during the second paint-
finishing phase.
HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR BARBECUE
•
If you have purchased an unfinished barbecue, we suggest you paint it as
soon as possible, using suitable products.
•
If the barbecue is used when wet, for example after a rainy day, we
suggest burning a slow fire for the first hour to ensure that it dries completely,
and to avoid thermal shocks which could cause cracks in the structure.
•
Avoid burning too much wood on the barbecue at the one time. This would
cause the flames to flare out of the hood. Do not use your barbecue as an
incinerator for leaves, grass or other household waste.
•
The wooden, cardboard and plastic parts of the packaging must be taken
to the local recycling centres.
•
We recommend you protect your barbecue by covering it during the winter
months.
USING YOUR BARBEQUE
•
Before firing your barbecue, the fire slab should always be cleaned of any
ash or other residues.
•
Always use well-dried wood chopped into pieces of various sizes.
•
Do not use spirit or petrol for lighting or re-lighting! Use only firelighters
complying to EN 1860-3!
•
Light the fire and wait at least 30 minutes before you start cooking. Do not
start cooking until embers have formed.
•
You can use firewood to light the fire. It must be perfectly dry. Use no more
than 4 to 5 kilos a time.
•
If your barbecue is equipped with a wood-holder, spread a good layer of
paper on the holder bottom, and cover the paper with chips of wood or dry
tinder. Then place over these larger pieces of wood.
•
To make it easier to light the fire, arrange the wood with care to avoid
smothering the paper and tinder at the bottom.
ALWAYS USE OVEN GLOVES AND HOLDING PADS WHEN COOKING OR
MOVING THE GRILL OR THE SPIT.
COOKING ON THE GRILL
The embers will start to fall on the fire by themselves, forming an even layer. To
assist their fall, shake the burning wood with the stirring tool through the spaces
on the wood-holder. Slide the clean grill on the grooves and, after allowing it to
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