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Non-Through-Cutting (Grooving and Rabbeting)
Your saw is equipped with a grooving stop
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26
screw
and wing nut
to allow for groove cutting. Instructions in the
Crosscuts, Bevel Cuts and Cutting Compound Miters sections are for cuts
made through the full thickness of the material. The saw can also perform
non-through cuts to form grooves or rabbets in the material.
Grooving (Fig. A1, A2)
Refer to Grooving Stop for detailed instructions for setting depth of cut. A
piece of scrap wood should be used to verify the desired depth of cut.
1. Hold the wood firmly on the table and against the fence
the cut area underneath the blade. Position the saw arm fully forward,
with blade in down position. Turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger
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switch
shown in Figure A2. Smoothly, push saw arm rearward to cut
a groove through the workpiece.
2. Release the trigger switch with the saw arm down. When saw blade has
completely stopped, raise the saw arm. Always let the blade come to a
full stop before raising the arm.
3. To widen the groove, repeat steps 1–2 until the desired width
is obtained.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. B)
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure
before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An
unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to,
such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is
firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of
the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to
the base of the saw – not to any other part of the work area. Ensure
the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce
the risk of personal injury and workpiece damage.
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Use the material clamp
provided with your saw. The left or right fence
will slide from side to side to aid in clamping. Other aids such as spring
clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and
shapes of material.
To Install Clamp
1. Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be facing
toward the back of the mitre saw. The groove on the clamp rod should
be fully inserted into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into
the base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp will not
be secure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180° toward the front of the mitre saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine
adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
nOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK
THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH
THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
Support for Long Pieces (Fig. D)
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
For best results, use the DE7023-XJ or DE7033 leg stands
the table width of your saw. Support long workpieces using any
convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends
from dropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other
Four-Sided Projects (Fig. Q, R)
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel" for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown
in Figure Q.
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, depth adjustment
11
. Align
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to extend
Sketch 1 in Figure R shows a joint made with the bevel adjustment method.
The joint shown can be made using either method.
•
Using bevel adjustment:
-
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a
90° corner.
-
The mitre arm is locked in the zero position and the bevel
adjustment is locked at 45°.
-
The wood is positioned with the broad flat side against the table
and the narrow edge against the fence.
•
Using mitre adjustment:
-
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad
surface against the fence.
Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames (Fig. R)
Sketch 2 in Figure R shows a joint made by setting the mitre arm at 45° to
mitre the two boards to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the
bevel adjustment to zero and the mitre arm to 45°. Once again, position
the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against
the fence.
The two sketches in Figure R are for four-sided objects only. As the number
of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart below gives
the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all sides are of
equal length.
NUMBER OF SIDES
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula: 180°
divided by the number of sides equals the mitre (if the material is cut
vertically) or bevel angle (if the material is cut laying flat).
Cutting Compound Mitres (Fig. S)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle and a bevel angle at
the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with
slanting sides like the one shown in Figure S.
WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the
bevel lock knob and the mitre lock handle are securely locked. These
must be locked after making any changes in bevel or mitre.
The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and
mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts.
•
Select the desired angle A (Fig. S) of your project and locate that angle
on the appropriate arc in the chart.
•
From that point follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel
angle and straight across to find the correct mitre angle.
•
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practise
fitting the cut pieces together.
EnGLISh
MITRE OR BEVEL ANGLE
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
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