GRAUPNER JULES VERNE Instructions De Montage page 21

strake. Touch up the sanded edge using the same colour as the hull. The next step is to prepare and fix
the rubbing strake (part 41): first glue the two long pieces to the hull sides using cyano, then prepare the
rubbing strake for the bow area by carefully pre-bending it to follow the outline of the hull. Glue the pre-
formed strake in place. TIP: it is a good idea to paint the rubbing strake sections before sticking them to
the hull. TIP 2: once again it makes sense to mask out the areas of the hull where glue might run onto the
finished surface.
Trim the staircase treads (part 42) and the bathing platform deck (part 43) to fit. Finish the parts in the
same way as the wooden deck, and glue them to the hull. Take care to fit the staircase treads in the
correct order, as their width varies: the narrowest step is the top one, the widest one the bottom one. The
steps only fit in one particular position, and it is easiest just to try them out on the model. TIP: once you
have sorted the treads, mark the underside to avoid having to repeat the procedure.
Check that the superstructure (part 4) makes good contact with the deck all round; carry out any minor
trimming required.
The next step is to trim the wooden superstructure cladding components to fit, starting with the side
cladding (part 45). Attach these panels to the superstructure temporarily using a little double-sided tape,
then carefully sand the panels back to obtain the correct angle relative to the lateral window claddings
(part 46), taking great care to avoid scratching the glazed areas of the superstructure (mask them out).
Temporarily stick the central window frame (part 47) in place using double-sided tape. Ensure that the
window is exactly central; you may need to trim it slightly to meet the side panels accurately.
Now temporarily stick the side window frames in place using double-sided tape. The side at which they
meet the central window frame must be chamfered (mitred) so that there is no gap between the two
panels. Now trim the outside edges to fit the side cladding. From the point of view of appearance it is
important to ensure that the windows are not angled, and that the window frames are the same width, i.e.
always remove material from both sides when trimming the panels.
Remove all the superstructure cladding again, and stain and lacquer the panels as already described.
The superstructure can now be painted. Mask off the exposed glazing areas and paint the superstructure.
The glazed area of the two rooflights should also be masked off before painting. Once the paint is dry, the
finished cladding panels can be fixed in place permanently using cyano. Ensure that no cyano gets onto
the glazed areas. TIP: since normal cyano has a tendency to "bloom" (leave white smears), we
recommend that you use solvent-free cyano (styrofoam cyano), e.g. Order No. 5820.
Place the rear bridge panel (part 48) on the superstructure and check that it fits correctly, butting up to the
side cladding without any gaps. Stain and lacquer the panel and glue it to the superstructure.
Trim the bridge deck (part 49), the bridge step (part 50), the after deck (part 51) and the fore deck (part
52) to fit in the superstructure. When you are satisfied, finish the wooden panels as described for the
wooden deck and glue them to the superstructure. Take particular care with the fore deck, which should
be rounded out on the underside to ensure that it fits snugly in the superstructure, and lies flush at the top.
Cut the guard rails (part 53) for the two rooflights from 1.0 mm Ø ABS rod. The rooflights are marked to
indicate the position and length of the bars. Cut the rods to the correct length and glue them in the
appropriate position using tiny drops of cyano. TIP: the easy way to ensure that the bars are equally
spaced and parallel is to cut a piece of wood to the correct width and place this against one bar whilst
positioning the next. TIP 2: a good method of applying tiny drops of cyano is to take a length of thin wire
and dip it in the adhesive. The wire allows you to position the drops with great accuracy. Paint the guard
rails the colour of stainless steel. You will find that you only have to paint the top half of the round material
in order to give a convincing impression. If you prefer, you can also cut the guard rails from a length of 1.0
mm Ø steel wire; the wire should have as shiny a surface as possible.
Make up the screening plate (part 54) for the rear rooflight from scrap ABS as shown on the plan. Paint
the face which will be visible through the rooflight in a dark colour, and glue the plate to the underside of
the superstructure. Ensure that the plate is well glued, as the Velcro tape which secures the
superstructure is fixed to it later.
Cut out the roof (part 55) along the marked lines. In the area of the side windows it is important that the
roof should be cut to the same curved outline as the window frames. If the two curves are different,
producing a non-parallel frame outline, this tends to spoil the boat's appearance. Don't glue the roof in
place permanently at this stage, as the wooden window frames for the bridge windows must be fitted first;
these are installed later.
Make up the spacers (part 56) from scrap ABS and glue them to the inside of the roof (in the area where
the Jules Verne placards will be located later). TIP: these parts can also be cut from scrap plywood from
the window frame sheets.
Temporarily attach the roof to the superstructure using double-sided tape, so that you can trim the
vacuum-moulded cockpit components to fit against it. Use just enough tape to hold the roof in place,
otherwise it will be difficult to remove again later.
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! ID# 47496
10/2003
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