(part 3). Note that the parts must first be glued together in pairs, i.e. each part consists of two panels
which must be glued together with their edges flush. Fix the stand components together using white glue.
TIP: weight the doubled wooden parts down while the glue is hardening, so that the surfaces make good
contact overall. TIP 2: apply felt or some other soft material to the contact surfaces of the stand to avoid
scratching the painted model.
Cut the brass tubes which form the rudder bushes (part 5) to a length of 25 mm. Sand the joint surface of
the tubes and glue them in the two 4 mm Ø holes in the hull (part 4) in the position shown in the drawing.
Ensure that both tubes are exactly parallel and angled as shown on the plan. TIP: this is easier to check if
you fit the rudder units (part 6) in the bushes temporarily. Glue the two tubes securely to the hull and apply
a generous fillet of UHU acrylit round them, as they have to withstand considerable loads when the boat is
running.
Push a collet (part 8) into each of the tillers (part 7) and fit a retaining screw (part 9) in each one. Fit the
tillers on the rudder units. Cut off the excess rudder shaft material just above the tillers, otherwise the
rudder system will foul the stern steps (part 33).
The rudder link rod (part 10) is made from 1.5 mm Ø steel rod: cut a piece about 85 mm long from the rod
supplied, and bend both ends down at right-angles to leave a straight centre section about 65 mm long. It
is important that both tillers are exactly parallel, as shown on the plan. Connect the link rod to the tillers
and secure each end with a pushrod keeper (part 11).
The rudder pushrod (part 12) is made up from the same 1.5 mm Ø steel rod. Bend the final 10 mm at one
end at right-angles. Connect the formed end to the tiller and secure the end with another pushrod keeper
(part 11).
Cut out the servo mount (part 13). Fix the rudder servo (part 14) in the opening using the screws supplied
with the servo. TIP: push a pointed object such as a thin nail through the plastic at the hole positions, then
drive the screws directly into the ABS. Open up the linkage hole in the servo output arm to 2 mm Ø and
install the pushrod connector (part 15) in it. Secure the pushrod connector with the retaining nut (part 16).
Glue the servo mount in the hull in the position shown. Fit the rudder pushrod through the pushrod
connector (you may need to remove the output arm from the servo in order to insert the pushrod), then set
the servo and rudders to centre and tighten the grubscrew (part 17) in the pushrod connector to clamp the
pushrod in place. Remove the excess pushrod length, leaving about 4 mm projecting from the pushrod
connector.
Fix the stern tubes (part 18) to the brackets (part 19) using the retaining screws (part 20). Drill a 2 mm Ø
hole in the stern tubes through the opening in the brackets; this forms the lubrication hole for the stern
tubes. TIP: if you wish you can fit a piece of tubing onto the lubricating nipple, e.g. Order No. 1668.3.
The next step is to fix the two motor mount units together: screw the shaft coupling (part 21) to the motor
(part 23) using the grubscrews (part 22). There should be a slight gap between the coupling and the
motor. Screw the motors to the motor mounts (part 24) using the motor retaining screws (part 25). Cut the
two slots in the motor mount on the stern tube side using a sharp knife. Fit the retaining screw in the small
holes and fit the nut (part 26) loosely to prevent it falling out again.
Solder the suppressor capacitors (part 27) to the motor terminals together with the power leads (part 28).
Note that the second motor unit must be connected with reversed polarity so that it rotates in the opposite
direction (see wiring diagram).
Now fit the motor assemblies on the stern tubes and fix them in the correct position by tightening the
screws. Note: you may have to adjust the holes in the hull slightly. Make up the motor mount braces (part
29) from the 10 x 10 mm spruce strip supplied. Ensure that the braces do not force the motor assembly
upwards; the mounts must make good contact with the hull. Glue the braces in place when you are
satisfied. Drill 1.5 mm Ø holes in the braces then fix the motor assembly in place using the retaining
screws (part 30). Check once more that the assembly is not under stress or tension.
Screw the propellers (part 31) on the end of the stern tube shafts. The propellers are handed, so make
sure you fit them on the appropriate shafts.
Cut out the fin strake (part 32) as shown and glue it to the bottom of the hull using UHU acrylit, taking care
to keep it aligned "straight ahead". The strake protects the rudder and shaft systems from damage if the
hull strikes bottom, so make sure that the glued joint is really sound.
The hull and the stern staircase (part 33) must now be trimmed to ensure that they make good contact
where they join. This applies in particular to the edges, as the manufacturing technique produces a small
flange which will need to be sanded smooth. The staircase will need to be chamfered on the inside in the
area where the deck will later be glued. This is essential, otherwise the joint between the deck and the
staircase will not be neat and accurate.
The hull can now be glued to the stern staircase: align the edges of the staircase and the hull and press
the joint surfaces together using clamps (e.g. Order No. 542.1 or 542.2) while the glue is setting. This
technique is necessary in order to avoid an offset in the top surface of the hull, and this in turn means less
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten!
ID# 47496
10/2003
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