GRAUPNER JULES VERNE Instructions De Montage page 24

drilling the holes deeper than intended. Winding adhesive tape tightly round the drill also works, but this is
not 100% reliable as the tape may slip.
Shorten the railing stanchions as shown on the plan, fit them in the holes and align them carefully by fitting
a piece of thin wire through the rail holes. This should ensure that the braided wire which forms the lower
rail has a straight run. When you are sure the railing stanchions are correctly aligned, glue them in place
using low-viscosity (thin) cyano.
The two handrails (part 130) are made from the flexible beech strip supplied. Bend the rails to shape as
accurately as possible, and check that they retain their shape as far as possible before finishing them with
stain and lacquer in the usual way. Mark the position of one centre railing stanchion on the handrail, punch
a point in the centre of the rail and drill a 2 mm Ø blind hole to a depth of about 1.2 mm. TIP: as
mentioned previously, a collet on the drill helps avoid drilling right through the handrail. Fit the rail on the
railing stanchion and mark the position of the two adjacent stanchions. Drill blind holes at the marked
points, and continue to work in this way until you have drilled the holes for all the stanchions. Shorten the
ends of the handrail and trim them to fit neatly against the deck.
The handrail can now be glued to the stanchions using cyano. When the glue has set hard glue the two
ends to the hull permanently using cyano. TIP: cyano activator (Order No. 953.150) is helpful here, as it
accelerates the hardening of the adhesive.
Repeat the procedure with the second handrail.
Apply several coats of clear lacquer to the handrail. It is particularly important to avoid the wood absorbing
moisture, as it will then swell up considerably and ruin the handrail's appearance.
The next step is to fit the lower rail (part 131) through the railing stanchions. Fix one end of the braided
wire in the hole with cyano, place the wire under tension and fix the other end with cyano in the same way.
Ideally the braided wire should be under light but even tension along its entire length, without any hint of
sagging. When you are satisfied, fix the rails to all the stanchions with a drop of cyano. Finish the job by
cutting off the overhanging ends.
Make the forward flagstock (part 132) from the beech dowel supplied and sand it to a slight taper. Cut the
round top cover plate (part 133) from scrap ABS and glue it to the tip of the flagstock. To reinforce the
flagstock joint we recommend that you drill a hole in the bottom and glue a short piece of rod in it. Drill a
hole in the hull at the stated position and glue the flagstock in place permanently.
Cut down the cleats (part 134) as shown on the plan: they should have an even overhang at both ends.
Glue the prepared cleats and the fairleads (part 135) to the hull in the positions shown on the plan.
Assemble the two navigation lamp brackets (part 136 + 137) from scrap ABS. Ensure that the two parts
are built up as a mirror-image pair. Trim the two lamp brackets to fit on the railings and glue them in place
as shown. Paint the lamp brackets black and glue the navigation lamps inside them. If you do not wish to
fit working lamps, you can simply paint them the appropriate colour on the inside; this gives a good overall
impression.
Cut out the decals from the decal sheet using a pair of sharp scissors or a knife, and apply them in the
appropriate positions on the boat, as shown in the kit box illustration. The white line on the hull sides
above the waterline can easily be applied using a strip of white trim tape (e.g. Order No. 623.8).
Cut two pieces of Velcro tape (part 139) about 45 mm long and stick the strips to the deck: one in the
small recess in the bow area, one at the rear below the stern rooflight. The two strips hold the
superstructure firmly in place when the boat is running. The remaining Velcro tape is used to secure the
RC components and drive batteries.
Connect the RC system components as shown in the wiring diagram on the plan. The receiver aerial is
fixed to the inside of the hull using Velcro tape (as far as possible above the waterline, otherwise radio
reception will be affected). If you prefer, a vertical whip aerial can be mounted on the outside of the model.
This is strongly recommended if you wish to run your model at considerable range. If you fit a whip, the
aerial wire attached to the receiver must be shortened by the length of the whip aerial.
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! ID# 47496
10/2003
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