Body and hand position (Fig. O1 – O3)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the
mitre saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
Never place hands near cutting area.
Place hands no closer than 152 mm from the blade. Hold
the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released
and the blade has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY
RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT
YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE.
DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE O2 and O3.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper
balance. As you move the mitre arm left and right, follow it and
stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the
guard louvers when following a pencil line.
Bevel square to table adjustment (Fig. O4)
To align the blade square to the table, lock the arm in the
down position with the lock-down pin. Place a square
against the blade, ensuring the square is not on top of a tooth.
Loosen the bevel lock knob and ensure the arm is firmly
against the 0° bevel stop. Rotate the 0° bevel adjustment
screw with the 10 mm spanner (not provided) as necessary so
that the blade is at 0° bevel to the table, as measured
with the square.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes and other
four-sided projects (Fig. P – P2)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood
until you develop a "feel" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one
shown in Figure P. Sketch A in Figure P1 shows a joint made
by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two
boards at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this joint
the mitre arm was locked in the zero position and the bevel
adjustment was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with
the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge
against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitring right
and left with the broad surface against the fence.
Cutting trim molding and other frames (Fig. P1)
Sketch B in Figure P1 shows a joint made by setting the mitre
arm at 45º to mitre the two boards to form a 90º corner. To
make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the
mitre arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with the broad
flat side on the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
Figures P1 and P2 are for four-sided objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the mitre and
bevel angles.
The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety
of shapes.
(Original instructions)
Number of Sides
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length. For a
shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula:
180º divided by the number of sides equals the mitre (if the
material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material is cut
laying flat).
Cutting compound mitres (Fig. P2)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle and a
bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to
make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown
in Figure P2.
Note: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that
the bevel lock knob and the mitre lock handle are securely
locked. These must be locked after making any changes in
bevel or mitre.
Cutting base molding (Fig. Q)
Straight 90º cuts:
Position the wood against the fence and hold it in place as
shown in Figure Q. Turn on the saw, allow the blade to reach
full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.
Position material as shown in Figure Q. All cuts should be
made with the back of the molding against the fence and with
the bottom of the molding against the table.
Inside Corner
Left Side
Mitre left 45°
Save left side of cut
Right Side
Mitre right 45°
Save right side of
cut
Material up to 70 mm can be cut as described above.
BES701 - 70 mm for 216 mm
Cutting crown molding
In order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound
mitred with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are
at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90°. Most,
but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section
ENGLISH
Mitre or Bevel Angle
45º
36º
30º
25.7º
22.5º
20º
18º
Outside Corner
Mitre right 45°
Save left side of cut
Mitre left 45°
Save right side of
cut
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