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Stage 8, installing the servos
- The throttle servo and its accessories are not required for
the electric version. Simply skip the stages which describe
them.
- The rudder and elevator pushrods must cross over inside
the fuselage, as shown in Fig. 73, otherwise they will not
work smoothly. The rudder pushrod must be routed under
the elevator pushrod. Cut down the outer sleeves so that
they project about 10 mm beyond the rear main former.
- Screw clevises on the threaded end of the
rudder pushrod (1.8 Ø x 400 mm)
and the elevator pushrod (1.8 Ø x 370 mm) and slip them
into the outer sleeves from the tail end - Fig. 74.
- Cut rings of silicone tubing and push them over the
clevises; the rings prevent the clevises springing open in
use. Do the same with the aileron pushrod clevises.
Connect the rudder and elevator horns to the clevises,
position them on the control surfaces and mark the position
of the holes. Drill 2 mm Ø screw-holes at the marked points
- Fig. 75. Note the position relative to the hinge pivot axis
- sketch "A".
- Drill the holes and attach the horns using the retaining
screws and spreader plates - Figs. 76 to 79.
- Press the rubber grommets and tubular spacers into the
mounting lugs of the three fuselage-mounted servos. Set
the servos to neutral from the transmitter. Cut down the
cruciform output levers as shown in Fig. 80 and fit them on
the servos. Open up the linkage holes in the output arms to
1.8 mm Ø.
- Place the servos in the fuselage and position them in line
with the pushrods. Drill the holes for the retaining screws
- Fig. 81.
- Screw the servos in place. Set the control surfaces and the
throttle to neutral and mark the point on the pushrods where
they cross the appropriate linkage hole in the output arms
- Fig. 82.
- Bend the end of the pushrods at right-angles, cut off the
excess and fit the retaining clips. Connect them to the
servos as shown in Fig. 83. Glue the outer sleeves to the
rear main former.
Stage 9, installing the receiving system
- Note: the receiving system switch, the charge socket and
the receiver battery are not required for the electric version.
Simply skip the stages which describe their installation.
- Glue the receiver support plate in place - Fig. 84.
- Cut an opening in the right-hand fuselage side for the
switch, using the switch bezel as a template, and install the
unit as shown in Fig. 85.
- Install the charge socket holder on the opposite side of the
fuselage - Fig. 86. Push the switch harness charge socket
into the holder.
- Unwind the wire aerial attached to the receiver. Make a
strain relief from a spare servo output arm (servo accessory
pack) and thread it onto the aerial. Apply a strip of double-
sided foam tape to the receiver - Fig. 87.
- Stick the receiver to the support plate - Fig. 88.
- Connect the receiver battery to the switch harness, pack it
in foam rubber and stow it under the fueltank. Eventually it
may be necessary to adjust the position of the receiver
battery in order to obtain the correct CG position - Fig. 89.
- Drill a 2 mm Ø hole in the fuselage for the aerial. Route the
aerial out of the fuselage through the hole and secure the
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
Assembly and operating instructions
Pitts S 1 ARF
27
end to the fin with a piece of tape - Figs. 91 and 92.
- Connect a Y-lead to the receiver aileron socket. Bundle all
the leads together using spiral tubing or adhesive tape, and
deploy them neatly - Fig. 93.
Stage 10, fitting the top wing, final work
- Cut away the excess material from the moulded canopy and
sand the cut edges smooth - Fig. 94.
- Place the canopy on the fuselage and position it carefully.
You will be able to see the outline of the internal blocks from
the outside of the fuselage; mark the location of the screw-
holes in the centre of the blocks, and drill the holes
1.5 mm Ø - Fig. 95.
- Open up the holes in the canopy only to 2.5 mm Ø. Fix the
canopy to the fuselage using 2.2 Ø x 5.5 mm self-tapping
screws - Fig. 96.
- Apply the decals to both sides of the fuselage in the arran-
gement shown. Cut away the decal where it partially covers
the opening for the cylinder head - Figs. 97 and 98.
- The cabane components are supplied ready-made, but the
angled bends may need to be adjusted slightly. Don't
tighten the retaining screws fully at this point, as this allows
the position of the top wing to be adjusted.
- Fix the aluminium cabane struts to the fuselage using
M3 x 10 screws. Note the position of the 2 mm Ø holes for
the connecting braces, as indicated by the arrows in
Fig. 99.
- Install the connecting braces using M2 x 10 screws and M2
nuts - Fig. 100.
- Screw the bottom wing to the fuselage.
- Attach the wing struts to the brackets on the bottom wing
using M2 x 10 screws, washers and M2 nuts
- Figs. 101 and 102.
- Place the top wing on the cabane and the wing struts, and
fit the screws to secure it - Fig. 103. Align the top wing
carefully, then tighten all the screws.
- Make up the aileron connecting rods.
- Connect the clevis to the top aileron lug and mark the
position of the hole for the bottom aileron lug - Fig. 104.
- Drill 3 mm Ø holes at the marked points.
- Open up the holes in the aileron lugs to 2.5 mm Ø and fix
them to the bottom ailerons using 2.9 Ø x 9.5 mm screws
and 4.1 / 10 Ø mm washers.
- Connect the aileron connecting rods - Fig. 105.
- Fit the propeller and spinner on the motor shaft - Fig. 106.
It may be necessary to trim the cut-outs in the spinner,
depending on the propeller you are using.
Your model is now complete.
Balancing
- Assemble the model completely, ready to fly. Mark the
Centre of Gravity "C.G." (10 mm forward of the front edge
of the rear cabane strut) - Fig. 107.
- Support the model on two fingertips under the top wing
roots at the marked points, close to the fuselage, and allow
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