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1.
Ozone unit
2.
Membrane air pump
3.
Ozone recator (protein skimmer)
4.
Non-return valve
4. Adjustion
The ozone unit has got a control unit (potentiometer) (1) by which the ozone output can be
adjusted continuously. We recommend to use 10 mg ozone/h as standard value for a 100-l-salt
water tank and 5 mg ozone/h for fresh water aquariums. The operation of the unit is indicated by
the LED (7). When started, it glows just weakly. If the power is increased at the potentiometer, it
lights more strongly, at 100% the LED glows constantly strong.
To determine the exact ozone requirement of the aquarium, we recommend to use the ozone unit
combined with an ORP (redox potential) controller, e. g. AB Aqua Medic mV controller or mV
computer. The mV computer switches off the ozone unit automatically as soon as the adjusted set
value of the redox potential is reached. Overdosing of ozone is toxic for all life in aquarium.
For start up, we recommend to increase the ozone output slowly over a period of 14 days to let the
biology of the aquarium adjust to better water quality.
5. Maintenance/Cleaning
The ozone production decreases considerably due to the influence of high humidity and dust. The
ozone element can be opened and cleaned easily. We recommend to check and clean the unit
every 8 – 10 weeks, if operated continuously.
How to clean the ozone element:
-
Disconnect the power plug (2).
-
Loosen and unscrew the screws (6) of ozone element (5).
-
Take off lid of the ozone element.
-
Clean the ceramic ozone plate with a soft cloth, using warm tap water. Do not use detergents!
Let it dry again.
-
Put lid of the ozone element back in place and check that the seal is placed exactly back into
the groove.
-
Tighten screws evenly.
-
Connect power supply.
Fig. 3: parts of the ozone unit:
1.
Control unit (potentiometer)
2.
Power plug (2)
3.
Air inlet
4.
Ozone outlet
5.
Ozone element
6.
Screws
7.
LED (operation indicator)
7
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