In the cabinet, there is a ball valve (Fig. 1, No. 8) that has to be slightly closed to control the water
in the overflow box. If the valve is closed to heavily or the return flow is blocked for some reason,
the water rises in the aquarium and flows to the filter tank through the emergency overflow. In
such a case, the ball valve has to be opened a bit further and all blockages have to be eliminated.
If the overflow makes loud noises, the ball valve has to be closed a bit more so the water is bottled
up stronger so that no air is dragged along. At least in the initial phase this has to be controlled
regularly and, if necessary, to be adjusted.
With the supplied PVC tubes with moulded keys on one side for holding the nuts of the bushings
(tank fittings), these nuts can be tightened or released. The bushings have to be installed
according to Fig. 2. Always re-tighten before use. The slide ring and nut have to be mounted
manually beforehand and tightened as much as possible. The rubber slide ring must always be
attached to the side of the rotable nut, the rubber gasket on the opposite side of the panel.
Fig. 2: Bushing or tank fitting (the glass pane is placed between slide ring 3 and rubber ring 2)
1.
Thread
2.
Rubber sealing
3.
Slide ring
4.
Nut
There is a blue fitting in the mounted bend of the return line. Here, air is sucked in when the pump
in the cabinet fails. This prevents the formation of communicating pipes and an overflow of the
filter tank by returning water.
When starting the aquarium, water has to be filled in until the filter tank is filled up to 10 – 12 cm
in the front part and then the pump has to be started. If the water level in the filter tank
decreases, water has to be filled in until the a.-m. maximum is reached. Take care that enough
space is left so that the inflowing water in case of failure or shutdown of the circulation pump still
fits into the filter tank.
The cables of circulation pumps or other parts mounted in the aquarium can be routed through the
empty conduit downwards. If a plug is too big for this, the profile slid onto the rear panel can be
cut with a PUK saw so that cables can be led out of the aquarium at the back. The back side
should, however, remain closed to allow the fan to suck in air in the aquarium and not from the
outside.
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