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Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps
may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material.
Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to
make a dry run before making the cut.
To install clamp (Fig. P)
Insert the clamp (37) into the hole (19) behind the fence.
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The clamp should be facing toward the back of the mitre
saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted
into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the
base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp
will not be secure.
Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the mitre saw.
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Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use
u
the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the work piece.
Note: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when
bevelling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UN-POWERED) BE-
FORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE.
ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE
ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
Adjustments
Your mitre saw is fully and accurately adjusted at the factory at
the time of manufacture. If readjustment due to shipping and
handling or any other reason is required, follow the instruc-
tions below to adjust your saw.
Once made, these adjustments should remain accurate. Take
a little time now to follow these directions carefully to maintain
the accuracy of which your saw is capable.
Mitre scale adjustment (Fig. Q1)
Lock the arm in the down position. Unlock the mitre lock
knob (5) and swing the mitre arm until the mitre latch button
(6) locks it at the 0° mitre position. Do not lock the mitre lock
knob. Place a square against the saw's fence and blade,
as shown. (Do not touch the tips of the blade teeth with the
square. To do so will cause an inaccurate measurement.) If
the saw blade is not exactly perpendicular to the fence, loosen
and move the material fence until the blade is perpendicular
to the fence, as measured with the square. Pay no attention to
the reading of the mitre pointer at this time.
Bevel square to table adjustment (Fig. Q2)
To align the blade square to the table, lock the arm in the
down position with the lock down pin (20). Place a square
against the blade, ensuring the square is not on top of a tooth.
Loosen the bevel lock knob (5) and ensure the arm is firmly
against the 0° bevel stop. Rotate the 0° bevel adjustment
screw with the 1/2" (12.7 mm) socket (not provided) as neces-
sary so that the blade is at 0° bevel to the table, as measured
with the square.
18
(Original instructions)
Guard actuation and visibility (Fig. V)
Warning! Pinch hazard. To reduce the risk of injury, keep
thumb underneath the operating handle when pulling the
handle down. The lower guard will move up as the operating
handle is pulled down, which could cause pinching.
The lower guard (4) on your saw has been designed to au-
tomatically uncover the blade when the arm is brought down
and to cover the blade when the arm is raised.
Before each use or after making adjustments, cycle the arm
(un-powered) and make sure the guard opens smoothly and
closes fully. It should not contact the blade. With the arm up,
raise the guard (un-powered) as shown in fig. V and release.
The guard should fully close rapidly.
Do not operate the saw if the guard does not move freely and
fully close rapidly. Never clamp or tie the guard in an open
position when operating the saw.
The guard can be raised by hand when installing or removing
saw blades or for inspection of the saw.
NEVER RAISE THE LOWER GUARD MANUALLY UNLESS
THE BLADE IS STOPPED.
Note: Certain special cuts of large material will require that
you manually raise the guard. Refer to cutting large material
under special cuts.
The front section of the guard is louvred for visibility while
cutting. Although the louvres dramatically reduce flying debris,
they are openings in the guard and safety glasses should
be worn at all times.
Rail Guide
Periodically check the rails (13) for any play or clearance. The
rails can be cleaned with a dry clean cloth.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other
Four-Sided Projects (Fig. R1, R2)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood
until you develop a "feel" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitreing corners like the one
shown in fig. R1. Sketch A in fig. R2 shows a joint made by us-
ing the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards
at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this joint the mitre
arm was locked in the zero position and the bevel adjustment
was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with the broad
flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the
fence. The cut could also be made by mitreing right and left
with the broad surface against the fence.
Cutting trim moulding and other frames (Fig. R2)
Sketch B in fig. R2 shows a joint made by setting the mitre
arm at 45º to mitre the two boards to form a 90º corner. To
make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and
the mitre arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with
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