Care And Maintenance - BEAL Dynamic Mode D'emploi

English
WARNING - Beal dynamic ropes are treated with
a durable yarn cover to increase resistance to wear
and humidity, and thus increase their active lifetime.
When new, the braking effect of descenders and
belaying devices is reduced. Before using the rope
together with any friction device, check that the
combination works effectively and securely to avoid
any braking surprises.
USE
. Before any use, read this notice carefully and then
retain it.
. This product is a dynamic rope intended for use
in climbing. It is capable of use as a link in a safety
chain designed to hold a fall.
•
Types of ropes :
Fig.1
- Single rope. May be used as a single rope as a link
in the safety chain.
- Half rope. Use in adventure climbing,
mountaineering or long climbs where abseil
descent may be necessary.
- Twin rope. For mountain and icefall use.
Clipping 2 strands essential.
. You must never use just one strand of half, or
twin, rope, except as a walker's aid.
. During a climb it is necessary to take into account
the effects of arresting a dynamic fall by using or
placing protection points to prevent hitting the
ground.
•
For abseils or top roping from the pitch base
Fig.3
check that the rope is at least twice the pitch length.
For greater abseil safety knot the end of the ropes.
. The various components of the safety chain
(harness, karabiners, tape, slings, anchors, belaying
devices, descenders) should conform to UIAA or
EN Standards. Select an appropriate belay device
for use with thinner diameter ropes.
. In case of use with a mechanical device, ensure
that the diameter of the rope and its other
characteristics are adapted to, and compatible with
the device.
. Please note : When a rope is new, the braking
effectiveness of belay devices is significantly
reduced.
•
The recommended knot for tying-on is a
Fig.4
well-tightened figure of 8 loop.
. Do not use a karabiner for tying-in if there is the
risk of a fall.
•
To tie 2 ropes together in preparing an abseil,
Fig.5
use a double fisherman's knot or a tape knot or a
figure of 8 loop.
PRECAUTIONS
•
Before first use, it's essential to unwind the
Fig.2
rope as shown in the diagrams to avoid twists and
kinking.
•
The rope must be protected against sharp
Fig.6
edges, stone fall, ice axes, crampons, anything
which could cut the internal or external fibres of
the rope.
Attention : The "UIAA Sharp Edge Resistance"
test is no guarantee that the rope will hold a fall
over a sharp or abrasive rock edge.
•
Rubbing together of two ropes through
Fig.7
karabiners or maillons induces heat which could
result in rupture.
•
Doubling the rope for abseiling or top
Fig.8
roping from the base of a pitch must be through a
karabiner or a maillon rapide:
- Not through slings
- Not over branches
- Not through the eye of a piton or hanger
. Avoid over-rapid abseiling or lowering which
could burn the rope and accelerate sheath wear.
The melting temperature of polyamide is 215°C.
This temperature may be attained during very
rapid descents.
. Check that there are no burrs or snags on
karabiners or descenders.
. Do not switch the role of karabiners. Reserve
some exclusively for running the rope through,
and use different ones for clipping anchors. The
latter use may score the karabiner, leading to
deterioration of any rope running through it.
. When affected by water or ice the rope becomes
much more sensitive to abrasion and loses
strength: redouble your precautions.
. The temperature in which the rope is stored or
used must never exceed 80°C.
. Before and during use, the possibility of rescue in
case of difficulty must be considered.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

. A rope must not be allowed contact with chemical
agents, particularly acids which may destroy the
fibers without visible evidence.
•
Avoid unnecessary exposure to UV, store the
Fig.9
rope in a cool, shaded place, away from dampness
and direct heat.
. It is preferable to use a rope sack for transporting
and for laying the rope out at the base of the cliff to
protect against dirt and reduce twisting.
•
If the rope is dirty, it may be washed in
Fig.10
clear cold water, if necessary with a washing
agent designed for delicate textiles, using a brush
made with synthetic bristles. Disinfect only using
materials that have no effect on the synthetic
materials used.
. If the rope is wet, after use or washing, leave to dry
in a cool, shaded place.
•
Before and after each use inspect the rope
Fig.11
Visually and manually along its entire length.
. This product must be inspected by a competent
person at least once a year and more frequently
according to the conditions of use.
. The rope is personal equipment. During any use
away from you it may be subject to grave damage,
which may not be visible.
. If a rope is cut into a number of lengths, repeat
and affix to each new end the markings of the
original ends.
LIFETIME
. Lifetime = Time of storage before first use + time
in use.
. The working life depends on the frequency and
the type of use.
. Abrasion, UV exposure and humidity gradually
degrade the properties of the rope.
. Note that with use, a rope thickens and thus loses
up to 10 % length.
. Storage time : In good storage conditions this
product may be kept for 5 years before first use
without affecting its future lifetime duration in use.
. Lifetime :
The potential lifetime of this product in use is
10 years.
Attention : This is only a potential lifetime, a
rope could be destroyed during its first use. It is the
inspections which determine if the product must
be scrapped more quickly. Proper storage between
uses is essential. The lifetime of the rope in use must
never exceed 10 years. The total maximum lifetime
(storage before use + lifetime in use) is thus limited
to 15 years.
•
The rope must be retired earlier :
Fig.12
- if it has held a major fall, approaching fall factor 2
- if inspection reveals or even indicates damage to
the core
- if the sheath is very worn
- if it has been in contact with any active or
dangerous chemicals.
- if there is the slightest doubt about its security.
WARNING
. The various cases of wrong use shown in this
notice are not exhaustive, there are innumerable
wrong uses possible, it is not feasible to show them
all.
. This product is designed for climbing and
mountaineering only.
. Climbing and mountaineering are inherently
dangerous.
. Special knowledge and training are required to
use this product.
. This product must only be used by competent and
responsible persons, or those placed under the direct
control of a competent person.
. Failure to follow these warnings increases the risk
of injury or death.
. The use of "second-hand" equipment is strongly
discouraged.
. You are responsible for your own actions and
decisions.
MEANING OF MARkINGS :
CE : Conformity to the European Regulation