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MOUNTING FRAMES
Raft Frames:
Carefully follow the frame assembly instructions. After the frame is assembled, place it on the raft so it rests on
the top wear-patch material. When the frame is positioned where you want it (generally in the center, except in
the case of stern frames), use NRS Heavy Duty Straps to cinch each corner to a D-ring on the raft. Place straps on
each side of the raft at opposite angles to keep the frame straight and centered.
Cataraft Frames:
"Trial and error" is the key to mounting the frame on your cataraft tubes, since correct positioning is largely a
matter of personal preference. Generally, for regular use, you want the weight and oarlock pivot located on the
center or slightly forward of center. For more extreme boating conditions, some rowers prefer to have the weight
farther forward on the tube to avoid having a wave raise the bow so high the boat flips backward. Day trips with
an oarsperson and one passenger often call for the rower to be substantially forward of center. Proper weight
distribution and rower position will increase performance characteristics and prevent the boat from "nosing in,"
or riding bow-high.
Start by positioning the frame on one tube so the weight is distributed slightly forward. Then, strap the outside
D-rings to the side rail, cinching them until they are just tight. Next, strap the inside D-rings to the lower rail. Cinch
these down tight. This will pull the tube toward the frame and tighten the outside straps. Align the other tube
across from the first and repeat these steps. After you've done it a few times you'll probably devise your own
system.
It is always recommended to create a series of "triangles" with the frame straps so that there is offsetting tension
holding the frame on the boat. This is particularly important to do when attaching cat tubes to their frame, since
the frame supplies all the structure and rigidity to the boat.
B.A.T. THWART SYSTEM
The innovative Batten Attachment Thwart (BAT) system allows you to easily install or remove the thwarts in your
raft. Simply align the slot on the end of the thwart between the attachment slots on the raft chambers and slide
the batten through all three slots, locking the thwart in place. Thwarts will be easier to install and remove when
both raft and thwart are deflated.
MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING
Proper care and maintenance will improve your boat's appearance and longevity. Clean and inspect the boat
after each use. We recommend coating your boat with 303 Protectant every few months during the season and
before long-term storage to protect against UV damage and degradation.
You should take care to keep moisture from getting inside the air chambers. Water can enter the chambers
during in-the-field repairs or if the valves are left open during wet weather. If you find that moisture and mildew
have accumulated in your boat's air chambers, the chambers must be aired out. Remove the valve of the
affected chamber. Pour out any liquid water, then run the hose of an electric air pump or vacuum exhaust through
the valve hole. Allow dry air to circulate into the chamber and out the valve hole until all the moisture is gone.
STAR MATERIAL REPAIR
Repair adhesives and cleaners are toxic. When repairing your boat, always work in a well-ventilated area and use
a good organic fumes respirator if possible. Always use proper chemical protection for your skin and eyes.
You will need: PVC patch material, medium-grit wet/dry sand paper, contact adhesive suitable for PVC material
(we recommend Clifton Urethane Adhesive, available through STAR or your local dealer) and solvent cleaner
(methyl ethyl ketone, or MEK, available through STAR or your local dealer).
Measure and cut a patch to cover the area that requires repair. The patch should be bigger than the repair area,
extending an extra 2" or so past the edge of the tear or abrasion. Round the corners of the patch. Lay the patch
over the area to be repaired and trace the outline onto the boat material. Using the sandpaper to buff the area
inside the traced outline and the backside of the patch isn't totally necessary but can help remove any contami-
nants. Only scratch off the shiny finish of the raft material; do not sand down to the point where the internal fabric
threads are exposed. Use MEK to clean the surfaces to remove any grease or oils and to prep the surfaces for
best glue adhesion. You can use sandpaper and MEK to remove any old glue in the repair area.
If possible, do the repair out of direct sunlight and avoid doing repairs when the humidity is over 70%. High
humidity can interfere with the glue bond. Apply a thin, even coat of adhesive to both the back of the patch and
the repair area on the boat. Wait 3 to 5 minutes, then, using strokes perpendicular to your previous ones, apply a
second thin, even coat of adhesive. Wait 3 to 5 five minutes to allow solvent vapors to evaporate, before bonding
the patch to the boat.
Carefully align the patch and roll it onto the boat. Remember, this is a contact adhesive, so once the two surfaces
touch you'll have difficulty realigning the patch. At this point, carefully heating the area with a heat gun or hair
dryer can help better activate the glue and improve bonding. Apply pressure to the entire glued surface using a
roller. Roll over the patch in multiple directions, working from the inside to the outside of the patch. This step is
very important because it forces air bubbles out and helps the two pieces of material bond. Use a lint-free towel
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