Billing Boats 600 Serie Instructions De Montage page 3

GB
HAVMÅGEN
The Havmågen is a typical coasting vessel as can be
seen sailing the waters along the Western coast of
Denmark.
This boat type was originally built in about 1930 by local
shipbuilders in the small Danish towns of Klitmøller and
Vorupør , and represented a considerable improvement
of the boats of the time. Since then, no appreciable
changes have been made, althrough the boats have
become a few feet longer and now have a wheel house
under cover.
The Havmågen is a stable and seaworthy vessel. Its
rather round design limits the speed to approx. 6 knots.
The vessels are still used for fishing, although emphasis
is now on seine fishing, with fish pots and angling used
only as occasional sources of extra income.
Weather permitting, fishing starts early in the morning
and continues all day. The boats are lowered and raised
be means of an electric winch, with wires embedded in a
block firmly anchored a good distance from shore.
Before being hauled ashore, the boats are sailed as far
up on the beach as the waves can push them. The winch
hook is then attached to the bow irons for hauling.
The boats are lowered aft first, although with strong
onshore winds the boats are turned on lowering, so that
the bow faced the waves. This is a difficult and often
quite dangerous operation.
For futher information about this type of boat, consult
your library and books about sea-fishing of the past.
FIG. 1: SLIP, KEEL AND FRAMES
Position slip A on a firm and even surface. Loosen keel
0 carefully and sand or cut off any notches left from
the punched plate. Affix one of the keels to the slip,
hammering the nails only partly in, as they are later to be
removed. Cut out the frames (no. 1 to 10), and sand all
edges smooth. Next glue the frames carefully to the keel;
they should extend exactly to the point of attachment for
the deck. Hold the frames in place while they are drying
by putting a pin in the lower part of the frame. Glue keel
pieces 0a and 0b on the front and back respectively.
Ensure that all parts are thoroughly dry before continuing.
FIG. 2: PLANKING
This figure shows the hull with planking strip no. 13 in
position. Before beginning the planking process it is very
important to sand and bevel the frames to fit the shape
of the hull. Planking stip no. 13 should rest evenly on
the frames. This ensures as well a larger gluing surface.
Check the bevelling of the frames by trying out the
strips on the frames before gluing on. Now affix the first
planking strip flush with the upper edge of the deck, then
position the bulkward no. 12. Planking downwards can
be more difficult, as the area to be planked on frame
no. 6 is larger than frame no. 1, making it necessary to
sand the strips conically for and aft. A small balsa plane
is useful for this purpose. Make sure to use sufficient
glue. Remember to sand all strips to taper for and aft,
so they can be positioned naturally on the frames. This
will prevent any stressing of the planking. The strips
must never be twisted into position. It is a good idea
to make a mark on both frame no. 6, for example, and
the corresponding strip, making it easier to affix. Allow
the glue to dry thoroughly before removing the pins and
mounting the next strip. When the planking is nearing
completion, remove the nails which have held the model
to the slip. Affix the last strips, then repeat the process
with the other half of the strip.
Glue on the stern blocks no. 1a.
FIG. 3: DECK
This figure shows the two hull halves ready to be glued
together, after both stern blocks no. 1a have been
positioned.
Sand both gluing surfaces completely even, and check
to ensure that the surfaces fit snugly. Glue the two
hull halves together and hold in place with clamps,
clothespins or tape until dry. Sand the entire hull.
FIG. 4: PROPELLER, RUDDER AND SLIP
Glue the propeller to a piece of brass wire F410 and glue
to the hull at a distance of 17mm from the lowest notch,
then paint. The rudder is assembled as shown, then
lacquered and painted. Punch out slip no. 15 and glue,
using strip no. 16, at a distance of 12mm. Lacquer and
paint with no. 5.
Punch out and measure railing strips no. 17. Sand the
edges round, and stain before gluing. Cut the upper part
of the rail (no. 42) in lengths of 5cm, stain and glue to the
model. Now give the entire rail a coating of clear lacquer.
FIG. 5, 5A AND 5B: CABINS, HATCHES, LOCKERS,
WINCHES, ETC.
The drawings in the building instructions show you clearly
how to assemble, paint and affix the various parts which
give the model an attractive finish.
3