Note:
• Change the settings only gradually and then check the changed running conduct to see if it corresponds
to your expectations. Write down the changes made so that you can easily reverse them again.
• If the ball-headed screws (A) and (B) are turned into the same direction (both screws clockwise or counter-
clockwise), this changes the toe-in/out instead of the camber!
• Turn both screws evenly (e.g. the upper screw turn one quarter turn clockwise, the lower one one quarter
turn counter-clockwise).
• Ensure that the thread of the ball-headed screws (A) and (B) remains screwed into the transverse link to
at least 2/3. If the screws are turned out too far, the drive shaft may fall out, and there is also a danger of
the transverse link being damaged if the ball-headed screw breaks from the thread.
If both ball-headed screws are turned in too far, the drive will be too hard-going. This must also be avo-
ided.
• The two outer metal grub-screws (C) are for fastening the ball-headed screws (A) and (B) in the axle
stub.
It is correct and best if the ball-headed screws in the axle stub can be moved easily without shaking. Only
then is the wheel suspended properly!
Do not tighten the metal grub screws (C) forcefully, because this will make the suspension too stiff and
prevent the wheel from rebounding properly.
If the metal grub screw (C) is not turned out enough, the ball-head screws (A) and (B) will wobble in the
axle spur and driving conduct will become uncontrollable since the wheel camber will change during
driving.
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