Note:
The camber is set by turning the upper and lower ball-headed screws (E) into opposite directions (turn one
screw clockwise, the other counter-clockwise).
If the ball-headed screws (E) are turned into the same direction (both screws clockwise or counter-clockwise),
this changes the toe-in/out!
Turn both screws evenly (e.g. the upper screw turn clockwise, the lower one one turn counter-clockwise).
Ensure that the thread of the ball-headed screws (E) remains screwed into the transverse link to at least
2/3. If the screws are turned out too far, the drive shaft may fall out, and there is also a danger of the
transverse link being damaged if the ball-headed screw breaks from the thread.
If both ball-headed screws are turned in too far, the drive will be too hard-going. This must also be avoided.
The two outer large plastics grub-screws (D) are for fastening the metal ball-headed screws (E) in the axle stub (C).
It is correct and best if the ball-headed screws (E) in the axle stub (C) can be moved easily without shaking.
Only then is the wheel suspended properly!
Do not tighten the grub screws (D) forcefully, because this will make the suspension too stiff and prevent the
wheel from rebounding properly.
If the grub screw (D) is not tightened enough, the ball-headed screw (E) is loose in the axle spur (C) and the
driving behaviour is uncontrollable, because the camber will change during driving.
Setting Rear Axle Camber:
For setting the camber, turn the upper transverse link (A).
Because the upper transverse link has a left and right hand
thread each, the transverse link does not need to be
dismantled for the camber to be adjusted.
In the axle spur there are several more suspension points
(B) for the upper transverse link. When the wheel rebounds,
the camber changes depending on the installation position
(e.g. stronger camber when the wheel is pushed in).
46
A
B