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Les langues disponibles
Les langues disponibles
GRP - wood
GRP - GRP
GRP - metal
GRP - plastic (resin air cowls)
Wood - wood
Read the instructions supplied with the adhesives. Be sure to observe any special notes in the
instructions regarding particular adhesives. If you are using acetone, methylated spirits or any other
solvent as a cleaning agent, special safety measures are necessary. Read the instructions supplied
with these materials.
Assembly instructions
1. Assemble the boatstand from the two side panels (part 1), the front hull support (part
2) and the rear hull support (part 3); glue the parts together securely. TIP: the support
surfaces for the hull can be lined with soft felt or similar material to avoid scratching
the hull surface.
2. Glue the reinforcing plate (part 4) to the inside of the transom (hull - part 6) You may
need to sand back the edges slightly to allow the plate to make good contact with the
transom.
3. Mark the position of the holes on the stern, and drill 1.5 mm Ø pilot-holes at the
marked points. If you use a larger size of drill, the screws will not hold securely.
4. The opening for the stern tube should be drilled out cautiously, otherwise the edges of
the hole will tend to tear. Start by drilling out the hole using progressively larger bits,
then use a round file to open it up to the final diameter of 10 mm.
5. The next step is to assemble the power assembly: locate the motor mount (part 7) and
shorten it on the side with the tall struts, as shown on the plan. Screw the electric
motor to the motor mount using the M3 x 8 mm or M4 x 8 mm screws supplied,
according to the motor you are using. Screw the shaft coupling (part 8) to the motor
shaft. Screw the shaft coupling (part 10) to the propeller shaft and stern tube (part 11),
but only tighten it lightly; just ensure that the coupling does not fall off. The flex-shaft
(part 9) is fitted between the two shaft couplings. NOTE: please bear in mind that the
shafts of the suggested motors are of different lengths, so allowance must be made for
your particular hardware when installing the power system. If you subsequently wish to
change to a different motor type, you may need to shorten the flex-shaft (part 9) or
place washers between the motor and the motor mount. If the shaft of the new motor
is shorter than the previous one, you will need to install a longer shaft coupling.
6. Fix the bracket (part 12) to the stern tube. Glue the bracket to the base (part 13)
permanently, then place the power system in the hull "dry" (no glue), and trim the base
to fit the bottom of the hull.
Set the power assembly perfectly straight in the hull. Fit the propeller (part 14) on the
shaft. If you now lay a ruler across the bottom edge of the forward step and the edge
of the second step, the hub of the propeller should be located above the ruler, i.e.
when the model is running across the water, the propeller hub should be above the
waterline. The position of the ruler is indicated as a line on the plan. When you have
established the correct position, tack the stern tube and the motor mount to the hull
using a little cyano.
7. When the cyano has set hard, apply a fillet of UHU plus (epoxy) round the stern tube
in the area of the transom for greater strength. TIP: it is a good idea to thicken the
epoxy with a filler such as chopped cotton strands or glass micro-balloons; this will
prevent it running out of the joint, and will provide a stronger joint between the stern
tube and the hull. NOTE: for the competition version you should glue a patch of glass
Thick cyano-acrylate, UHU plus
Cyano-acrylate, UHU plus
Cyano-acrylate, UHU plus
Cyano-acrylate
Cyano-acrylate, UHU hart, white glue
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