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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
EREBUS
A: Following the alphanumeric order, fit and glue the parts indicated in the photos and drawings. Before gluing the frames into place make sure that they have been correctly fitted "snugly"
into position on the corresponding slots in the false keel. It is important to make sure that the frames are completely perpendicular to the false keel, in order to ensure that the decks fit
correctly. Use white (or carpenter's) glue as the adhesive for this operation.
Using a pencil, draw a lengthways line to divide the deck (A20) into two symmetrical halves. Start to line the deck with the planking, aligning the first strip along the pencil line. Use contact (or
cobbler's) adhesive. Place the planking strips (A22) over the template, so that they can be cut to size, and then glue them in place to make up the deck.
With the wooden handle of a tool vigorously press the planking strips against the deck, making sure they are firmly glued in place. Now place the deck upside down on your work surface and
trim off all of the excess planking strips. Now mark lines and dots to simulate plank ends and nail heads.
B: Glue the deck (A20), now lined, onto the structure of the ship. It is important to ensure that the deck is resting correctly on the frames. For this process use fast-setting glue. Now soak
parts (Bi & B2) in water, so that they recover their flexibility and, using a cylindrical object, bend them to shape, making sure that you don't break them. Now stain the interior side of these
pieces a sapelli-colour or similar. Adapt and glue parts (B1 & B2) into place using white glue and pins. The nailer is an (optional) OcCre tool, which can be used to simultaneously hold and
drive home the pins, or nails.
C: Place the hull upside down and start to sand it, working from the bow towards the stern. You must sand down the reinforcements and the edges of the frames, although without deforming
their original shape. The sanding down of the hull must be symmetrical, i.e. the right side must end up the same as the left side. In the middle of the hull use a sanding block with a bigger
surface area. Sanding down needs be done progressively and gently.
Line up a strip to ensure that the sanded finish is correct. To this end you should slide the strip over the edges of the frames to verify that it adapts to the form. Take the strips (C1) and soak
them in water for around 20 minutes, which will enable them to recover a certain flexibility, then dry them using a cloth and use them to line the hull transom. Start to line the hull by fitting first
strip flush up against the bottom of the bulwarks. Check the images before going ahead with this operation. The strips must be glued to the frames and to each other, using white glue, and
then fixed in place using pins.
Now glue another strip alongside the first, and so on all the way to the stern. Continue with this process until you have lined the whole of the hull. You will have to cut the strips to size and
adjust the parts so that they fit into the gaps.
If, at any point, you detect that one or more of the strips is loose, correctly align it and apply fast-setting glue. If any of the strips is sunken, in comparison with the others, then glue another
one on top of it and sand it down until it is flush. Now glue the reinforcement parts (C3, C4, C5 & C6) into place, as shown. File down the pin heads until they are flush with the hull, and then
sand down the whole of the hull. Make sure that it presents a smooth finish without variations in level.
D: Using contact (cobbler's) adhesive, glue the lining planks (D1) into place. This second layer of planking should be fitted in the same way as the first. Any gaps that may be lefts must be
filled with lengths sharpened at both ends. Press them down firmly so that they stick securely to the hull. As the lining work progresses reopen the original holes in the bulwarks. Make sure
that the strips of planking are aligned as close together as possible, to ensure a good finish. Now gently sand down the whole of the hull leaving a uniform surface finish.
E: Glue the strips for the strake (E1), three at a time, along the full length of the hull, using fast-setting glue. Check out the template in the image to see how many strips need to be fitted to
make up the strake. Now sand them down to achieve the precise shape. Stain parts (E3 - E9) a sapelli-coloured or similar. Also stain the parts (E14 - E16) a sapelli-colour or similar. Attach
all of the other parts indicated in the images.
F: Make up and glue the parts (F1 - F5) into place. Paint the transom in shades of blue and then glue the windows (F2) into place. Sand down the part (F6), stain it sapelli-colour and then
varnish it. Fit and glue the hinges (F7) and the hinge-pins (F8) into place. You will have to make holes for the pins (A), use fast-setting glue. Paint the part (F19) gold, and the part (F26)
black. Use the template PL-01 to make the holes so that you can insert part (F29) and glue it to the deck. Make up and stain the deck pieces sapelli-colour stain, or similar. Now glue the
parts shown in the images for this phase into place.
G: Using the sizes indicated in the images as a guide, trace the template onto the hull so that it can serve for gluing the metal sheets (G1) into place.
Using scissors, cut the aluminium sheets (G1) lengthways into two halves, and then cut them in half again, making four quarter parts for each sheet, using pliers to straighten and/or bend
them to shape. Now sand or file down the edges using a sanding block or file. You will have to sand down the surface of the hull and the sides of the metal sheets that come into contact with
each other. Use contact (cobbler's) adhesive. Now fit the metal sheets (G1) into place, this would be the moment to paint the hull, if you wish to do so, after first sanding down both the sheets
and hull. The use of water-based, satin-finish acrylic paints is recommended. Make up and fit into place the other pieces shown in the images.
H-I: Make up the lockers and line them using the sheets of sapelli wood. Fit these elements in place using the template supplied as a guide. The chimneys must be painted black, highlighting
the reliefs in gold. Also paint the launch brown on the inside and white on the outside. The use of water-based acrylics with a satin finish is recommended. Stain the parts (X, Z & Y) with oak
stain and use them to make up the stand for the ship. Sand down the added parts and apply varnish Ref.19209.
MASTS AND SPARS
In order to make up the masts the first step is to cut the rods to size, as indicated in the parts list, or by taking measurements directly from the plans, which are printed in 1/1 scale.
All of the masts and spars have to have a certain conical shape, which they will have to be given.
In order to achieve this conical shape for the masts, sand down the rod (using a sander), increasing the amount of sanding down as you get closer to the end at which you want to decrease
the diameter. Turn the rod so that you sand it down evenly on all sides, until achieving the diameter indicated in the plan.
To achieve this conical shape for the spars carry out the above operations but in this case evenly reducing the diameter at both ends of the rod.
The rods will have to be stained or painted, depending on the model that you are building.
To correctly make up the must for this model you must take into account:
The plans
The close-up photos of the masts and spars
The measurements and material descriptions of the parts list
The "PI" parts identification sheets
The masts and spars need to be varnished, while some of the parts that make them up are meant to be painted. Examine the general and close-up photos of the masts
Once the mast and spars has been assembled and varnished fix the tackle (slings, blocks, eyebolts, clump blocks, etc.) into place on the ship. The masts will have to be fully inserted into the
sockets prepared to receive them in the false keel.
SAILS AND RIGGING
In order to make up the running gear for this ship follow the alphabetic order of the images printed on the plans, indicating the order for fitting the (ropes, clump blocks, blocks, sails, etc.)
highlighted in red. In combination with the parts list this will serve as a guide with regard to the type of material to be used and the measurements.
A method for simulating the aging of the sails is to soak them in an infusion of tea, without boiling, and then leaving them to dry all wrinkled up. Fit them in place without ironing so that they
will have a certain consistency.
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