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Attach the pulley blocks 30.1 to both spreader frames 23.7
using the split pins 30.2 - Fig. 278.
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Tie a knot in one end of the cords for the parrels 30.3 and
thread the other end of each through a glass bead 30.4.
Attach these assemblies to the gaff fittings 26.14 as shown
in Fig. 279. Thread a further five glass beads 30.4 onto
each cord.
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Insert the gaffs into the masts (split pins 26.12 down, cro-
w's feet 26.19 up) and complete the parrels by tying the
ends.
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Cut the throat halyards 30.5 and the peak halyards 30.6 to
length for the mainsail and schooner sail.
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Draw the throat halyard past the frame 23.7 from under-
neath, adjacent to the block 30.1, and secure it with a knot
(Fig. 285). Melt the short end with a match so that the knot
cannot come undone. Thread the halyard through the pul-
ley block 26.13 at the gaff and run it down over the pulley
block 30.1.
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Splice the peak halyard in at the split pin 23.29 and run it
down through the pulley blocks 26.20 and 22.38.
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Pull the two gaffs up to the approximate final position (plan
3) - see Figs. 280 and 281 - and fix the halyards to the
blocks using clothes pegs.
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To attach the gaff sails the masts must be removed from
the model. To do this remove the topmasts 23.9 and 23.10
and disconnect the shrouds at the hooks 23.16.
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We recommend that you start with the mainmast.
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Withdraw the masts from the mast sleeves 12.3 and 12.4
and thread the mast rings attached to the sails onto them
from the underside.
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Fit the belaying rings 23.31 and 23.33, the main boom sup-
port 23.34 and the mast collar 24.14 on the mast.
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Re-install the masts and rig them completely.
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Fix the sails temporarily to the gaffs using the upper las-
hings - Fig. 282.
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Fix the schooner boom to the forward belaying ring 23.31
using the self-locking nut 30.7; make sure it is free to swi-
vel to both sides.
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Fix the belaying rings and the main boom support to the
mast using the split pins 23.32, as described in Stage 23.
Shorten the split pins and splay the ends - Fig. 283.
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Note: if you can transport the model conveniently simply
by lowering the topmasts, the peak halyard and throat
halyard can be belayed (secured) to the pin rails in the
shrouds, as on the full-size vessel. If you have to remove
the masts completely for transport, the halyards should be
secured directly to the belaying rings on the mast.
Whichever solution you prefer, the gaff sails remain atta-
ched to the masts at all times.
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The halyards and other ropework are secured to the
appropriate belaying pins 30.8 as shown in the picture
sequence 284. In the pictures the arrow indicates the
direction of tension. The knot illustrated has the property of
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
Assembly instructions
Valdivia
Picture sequence 284 A - E
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30
tightening its grip on the cord under load, so it is fixed in
the direction of tension. The second loop of the knot is just
a security measure.
Do not cut off the excess halyard material; the ends are
later coiled up as on the full-size ship.
Fit a further parrel 30.3 / 30.4 to the claws of the main
boom. Lay the boom on the main boom support 23.34 and
tie it to the parrel.
Run the foot stretcher 28.7 from the thimble round the
main boom and back through the thimble again. Draw the
end through the forward block 25.30 and form a loop in it
close to the sheet fitting 25.19 - Fig. 285. Melt the end of
the cord, and fix the foot stretcher in place with a clamp.
Tie the front lashing 28.8 to the split pin 25.24 attached to
the claws, and use it to adjust the sail so that the holes in
the foot line up with the notches in the lacing rail - Fig. 286.
Fit the reefing lanyard 30.9 through the claws and tie a
knot in the end. Open up the loop on the pulley block 30.10
and thread it onto the lanyard. Connect the pulley block to
the foot stretcher, run the reefing lanyard forward and
belay it to the appropriate belaying pin at the claws. The
bottom edge of the sail should be under light tension - Fig.
287.
Tie a knot in one end of the lacing 30.11. Apply SP-EX to
the final 3 cm of the other end of the lacing to stiffen it, as
this makes the cord much easier to thread through. Pull the
cord through the first hole in the sail as far as the knot.
Fit the cord through the first notch starting at the rear, then
through the second and again back to the rear. From the
rear point run it forward through the second hole in the sail,
through the second notch and then back to the rear again.
At the third notch run the cord forward again.
Attach the sail to the main boom using this procedure.
Adjust the tension in the lacing so that the bottom edge of
the sail just makes contact with the lacing rail. The camber
in the bottom edge produces the desired "belly" in the sail
- Fig. 288.
Pull the lacing through the rear hole in the sail and tie it.
Run the excess length along the underside of the boom;
don't cut it off.
Starting at the split pin, attach the top edge of the sail to
the gaff using the lacing 30.12 as shown in Figs. 289 and
290. Adjust the tension so that the edge of the sail rests
against the gaff.
Adjust the throat halyard and peak halyard so that the sail
comes to a stop without delay and without creases.
In windy conditions it may be necessary to reef the main-
sail; this is carried out with the help of the reefing lines
30.13 and 30.14.
Cut the reefing lines to length and form a loop in one end
of each - Fig. 285.
Draw the rear lines 30.13 and 30.14 through the notches
in the right-hand reefing rail 25.26 and push them through
the sail thimbles. Thread the ropes through the 1 mm Ø
Order No.
1140
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