Multiplex Cularis Notice De Construction page 14

Prepare the tubular wing spars 60 as follows: glue the in-fill
pieces 36 (hardwood dowel) in the root end of the spars using
cyano, and round off the ends of the tubes slightly.
Fig. 06
3. Lay the wing joiner jig (bottom section of the packa-
ging) on a perfectly flat table. Invert the right-hand wing 8,
lay it in the jig and position it accurately (see Fig. 07).
Place the tubular spars 60 + 61 in the wing; note that the
tubes must project by 23 mm at the root end.
Figs. 08 + 09
The spar tubes are glued in the wing by applying thick cyano
over their full length - but taking care not to allow excess glue
to escape and soil the wing surfaces. Check that the spar
cover 10 fits accurately - initially without gluing it. When you
are satisfied, the joint areas can be "painted" with thick cyano,
and the spar cover pressed into the recess.
Work briskly here, but don't be too anxious - thick cyano gives
you ample time to complete the task properly without too
much haste. Press both the tubular spars down simultane-
ously while the glue is hardening, taking care to keep them
perfectly straight. This stage is important, as it determines
whether the wing is usable or not.
Apply thick cyano to the remainder of the spar cover contact
surface, fit the cover and press it down over its full area
During this process it is essential to keep the wing re-
sting squarely on the gluing jig, especially in the spar
area. Fig. 08
Leave the wing resting in the jig for a few minutes, and don't
be tempted to try any "bending / stress tests" yet, as the cya-
no-acrylate takes a few minutes to reach final strength.
Repeat the whole procedure with the left-hand wing 7. Please
note: the left wing should be turned through 180° before being
placed in the jig, i.e. the "trailing edge" is always on the same
side: the shorter support section of the jig.
Keep the gluing jig in a safe place, in case you ever have
to repair a wing or assemble a new one!
4. Preparing the wing joiner 45
Locate the recesses in the wing joiner moulding for the servo
connector sockets, fit the sockets in the slots (it makes sense
to fit them all the same way round - orange signal wire up),
and tack them in place with a drop of cyano. Screw the left
and right fuselage-mounted wing retainers 43 + 44 in place
using the M3 x 12 screw 31, the washers 33 and the nut 32.
Fig. 10
5. Installing the wing root mouldings
Check that the root moulding 40 is a snug fit on the right wing
8.
Fig. 11
Fit the servo connectors in the recess in the root moulding,
and push the excess cable length back into the cable duct. Fit
the wing joiner 45 onto the root moulding 40, taking care to
keep it the right way round. Check that the wing joiner fits
flush, and push the servo connectors fully into the sockets.
Check once more that the servo connections are correctly
polarised. When you are satisfied, secure the plugs with a
drop of cyano.
Fig. 12
Caution: be very careful when gluing the connectors to
the root mouldings; apply the adhesive sparingly and
14
accurately, otherwise you will never be able to discon-
nect them!
Check that the wing retainer 42 fits snugly in the wing, then
carefully glue it in place in the latched state. Fig. 13
Repeat the whole procedure with the left-hand wing panel 7.
6. Freeing the ailerons
Working on the wing panels 7 and 8, cut through the ends of
the ailerons and flaps leaving a gap 1 mm wide at each point.
Move the control surfaces to and fro repeatedly to free up the
hinge areas - take care not to separate the control surfaces! If
a hinge should tear, it can easily be repaired with a tiny drop
of cyano.
7. Attaching the horns to the ailerons and flaps
Fit the swivel pushrod connectors 25 in the second hole from
the outside of the four horns 24 for the ailerons and flaps.
Secure the connectors with the washers 26 and the nuts 27.
Fig. 14
Caution: take care to make two handed pairs (opposite ori-
entation left and right)! Don't overtighten the nuts, as the con-
nectors must be free to swivel smoothly; apply a tiny drop of
. cyano on a pin (or a drop of paint) to prevent the nuts wor-
kings loose. Fit the socket-head grubscrews 28 in the pushrod
connectors 25 using the allen key 29.
Apply activator to the recesses in the ailerons and flaps, and
glue the horns 24 in them, with the line of holes on the "hinge"
side of the control surface.
Fig. 14
8. Installing the aileron and flap linkages
Connect the pre-formed end of the wire pushrods 30 to the
outer hole in the servo output arms, and slip the plain ends
through the swivel pushrod connectors 25. Set the control
surfaces and servos to neutral (centre), and tighten the grub-
screws (28) firmly.
9. Fitting the servo well covers
The servo well covers 56 + 57 look neat and finish off the
wing nicely, but they are also designed to protect the servo
gears. Start by trimming the covers to fit if necessary, then
glue them in place with a few drops of cyano. Alternatively the
covers can be held in place with adhesive tape if you prefer -
this option makes it easier to replace a servo if it should ever
be damaged.
Fig. 14
10. Installing the wingtips
This stage completes the work on the wings
The moulding process leaves a "tongue" attached to the
wingtips, which should now be cut off. If you are building the
glider version, this scrap material can be used to seal the
cooling slots in the nose of the fuselage. Trial-fit the tips, and
glue them to the wing panels using cyano.
Figs. 15 - 16
11. C
OMPLETING THE
Prepar Completing the fuselage and the tail panels 13 – 14
ing the "snakes":
Check the length of the elevator snake sleeves 64 and 66,
and shorten them if necessary:
.