Pump
Servicing
Servicing should be performed
only by knowledgeable pump
service contractors or authorized
service stations.
1. Remove pump from sump.
Before removing pump from
sump pit for repair, check if
the trouble could simply be
a blown fuse, tripped circuit
breaker, or a power cord
not completely inserted into
the receptacle.
2. Check diaphragm switch. If
the unit is being operated
by the automatic diaphragm
switch, unplug the pump from
the
piggyback
and plug the pump directly into
the power source. If the pump
starts each time it is plugged
directly into the receptacle
and does not start each
time when plugged into the
piggyback
switch
the diaphragm switch pressed
into a start position, replace
the
complete
switch assembly and retest
with new assembly.
3. Check for impeller blockage.
Disconnect pump and switch
from power source. Check for
an obstruction in the impeller
cavity by laying the pump on its
side and inserting a screwdriver
into impeller. Impeller should
turn freely. If impeller is
stuck, then turn the pump on
its side, DRAIN THE OIL
through the oil fill plug on top
of the pump. Drain oil into a
clean, dry container. A milky
appearance to the oil indicates
that water has entered through
4
either worn out or damaged
seals (7) or seal ring. Remove
the 4 screws (6) to remove the
volute (9). If the impeller (10)
does not rotate freely, clear the
impeller and cavity walls before
reassembling the base. Repeat
Step 2.
4. Check power cord. If the
above tests have not resolved
the problem, it may be in the
electrical components of the
pump. Starting with the power
cord (2), inspect for cuts or
nicks in the insulation. If the
cord is damaged – replace it!
5. Remove the motor cover. Use
a screw driver to pry the motor
cover (3) from the seal plate
(8) at the fastening ears, being
careful not to cut the seal ring
receptacle
with the screwdriver or crack
the motor cover. Lift the motor
cover until it clears the stator
(4).
6. Check for short. Disconnect
the stator leads from the
with
connector. Use an ohmmeter
to check the continuity of the
stator. If stator fails to pass the
piggyback
continuity
test,
it
be replaced.
Ground check. Set ohmmeter
scale pointer to R X 100K
scale and check meter by
putting both meter leads
together and adjusting the
needle
knob
until
reads zero. If meter cannot
be adjusted to zero it will
indicate that batteries in meter
must be replaced.
Always make this test with the
meter when scale pointer is set
to a new scale before making
any checks on motor.
Now connect one meter lead
to one blade terminal of stator
and touch other meter lead
to motor stator shell (4). If
needle reads below 5 (500,000
ohms) stator must be dried out
before reusing. To dry out,
bake in 220° oven for 4 hours.
Recheck after motor cools. If
motor is new or thoroughly
dry, needle of ohmmeter will
not move on the ground test.
This indicates a reading of
50 megohms or higher. One
megohm is one million ohms.
6100 1009
must
meter