The stringers should be glued in place aligned with the
hull markings.
- Cut the fore-and-aft hull stringers 216 - 218 to exact
length in pairs, and bevel the ends as shown on Plan
I.
- Glue one stringer 216 in the centre of the transom.
The next step is to tack the stringer in place; it should
finish flush below the scuppers as it curves forward,
and rest on the hull at the marked points.
- Run cyano along the stringer to fix it in place perma-
nently.
- Attach the second transom stringer 216 and the fore-
andaft stringers 217, 218 in the same manner.
- Cut the vertical rails 219 to length to suit the model,
and trim them to fit between the stringers. Cut the
ends to a half-round shape to fit the stringers.
- Sand the fairings 220 to shape. Cut the ram guard
components 221 to size as shown on Plan I, trim them
to fit between the fairings, and glue them in place.
- Cut the stabilisers 222 from L-section strip as shown
in the detail view (Plan I), and glue them to the hull at
the marked points.
Painting the hull and the removable hatch
We recommend matt-finish synthetic enamel paints for
this model.
The hydraulic crane linkage, exploded drawing on Plan I
Part
Description
No.
223
Braided steel wire
224
Tubular rivet
225
Running cable
226
Hook
227
Ball, bored 1 mm Ø
- Remove the towing mechanism from the hull.
- The cable which raises and lowers the hydraulic crane
is made from the braided steel wire 223. Thread the
wire through the tube 104 from the top. Solder the
projecting bottom end to the drive shaft 141.
- Install the towing mechanism in the hull once more.
- Move the crane to the idle position. Pull the braided
wire down and secure it with the tubular rivet 224. Test
the system, and cut off the excess wire length when
you are satisfied.
- Cut the running cable 225 to a length of 1000 mm,
thread it through the tube 11K from the top, and run it
through the oval opening in the bulkhead 121. Attach
the cable to the actuating disc 149.
The anchor winch, Figs. 133 - 136
Part
Description
No.
228
Split pin
229
Anchor winch base plate
230
Gearbox housing
231
End-support
232
Anchor winch shaft
14
RAL colour key
7012
9010
2004
1018
5017
8003
3013
9011
6001
9006
Material
Steel
Brass
Thread
Brass
Lead
The next step is to fit out the decks. We suggest that you
make and prepare all the individual components, paint
them separately, and then attach them to the model in the
positions shown on the plan.
Material
Brass
ABS
ABS
ABS
Brass
© Klaus Krick Modelltechnik, Germany, Stand 06.2017
Basalt grey
Pure white
Pure orange
Zinc yellow
Transport blue
Earth brown
Tomato red
Graphite black
Emerald green
White aluminium
- Prepare the hull ready for painting.
- The construction waterline (CWL) also represents the
dividing line between the upper hull and the underwa-
ter hull in terms of colour. Measure off the waterline
from the plan, and mark it on the centre of the hull at
bow and stern.
- Make the jig shown in Fig. 132; this is used to mark
the waterline on the hull.
- Support the boatstand in such a way that the marked
CWL points are the same height above the flat base.
Mark the waterline all round by sliding the marking jig
round the hull. The hull can now be painted.
Size in mm
0.3 Ø x 600
1.2 O.D. x 2
0.2 Ø x 1000
1 Ø
8 Ø
- Run the upper end of the cable to the crane as shown
on the plan, and attach the prepared crane hook
assembly to it.
- Note: the crane is suitable for lifting loads weighing up
to 40 g, e.g. the inflatable boat mounted on the remo-
vable hatch. If you wish to do this, make up a crane
hook from parts 226 and 227 as shown in the detail
sketch. If you intend to set up the Happy Hunter as a
static display model, fit the scale crane hook instead.
Size in mm
1 Ø x 15
3, laser-cut
3, laser-cut
3, laser-cut
2 Ø x 57
No.
Notes
off
1
1
1
FS
1
As plan
2
No.
Notes
off
1
1
plate 10
2
plate 10
2
plate 10
1
FS