To Install Clamp; Support For Long Pieces; Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other Four Sided Projects; Cutting Trim Molding And Other Frames - DeWalt DW713 Guide D'utilisation

WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and
secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is
completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything
the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench.
When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly
support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted
to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above
the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always
clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other
part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped
on the edge of the base of the saw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control
and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal
injury.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against
the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your hand would
be less than 6" (152 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other
fixture should be used.
For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with
your saw. It is available for purchase at your local retailer or
D WALT service center (Fig. 1).
E
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps
may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material.
Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time
to make a dry run before making the cut. The left fence will
slide from side to side to aid in clamping.
TO INSTALL CLAMP (SOLD SEPARATELY)
1. Insert it into the hole behind the fence (Fig. 13). The
clamp should be facing toward the back of the miter
saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully
inserted into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted
into the base of the miter saw. If the groove is visible, the
clamp will not be secure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the miter saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then
use the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece
(Fig 1).
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base
when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED)
BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE
BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE
WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.

SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES

WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal
injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the
power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make any adjustments.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table
extension; as additional support for a workpiece that is
longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help
feed, support or pull the workpiece.
FIG. 17
B
A
18
FIG.
FIG. 19
FIG. 20
MITER
SCALE
FIG. 21
10
For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support
or the DWX723, DWX724 or DWX725B miter saw stand to
extend the table width of your saw. These are available from
your dealer at extra cost.
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such
as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from
dropping.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND
OTHER FOUR-SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood
until you develop a "FEEL" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one
shown in Figure 17. Sketch A in Figure 17 shows a joint
made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of
the two boards at 45° each to produce a 90° miter corner.
For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero position
and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45°. The wood was
ANGLE « A »
positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the
narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made
by mitering right and left with the broad surface against the
fence.

CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES

Sketch B in Figure 17 shows a joint made by setting the
miter arm at 45° to miter the two boards to form a 90°
corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment
to zero and the miter arm to 45°. Once again, position the
wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow
edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure 17 are for four sided objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel
angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety
of shapes. The chart assumes that all sides are of equal
length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the
following formula. 180° divided by the number of sides
equals the miter or bevel angle.
- EXAMPLES -
NO. SIDES
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS

A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a
bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to
make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown
in Figure 18.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that
the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock knob are securely
tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or miter.
ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°