If the back of the blade re-cuts or burns the workpiece, either the fence was not parallel, or the saw
needs adjustment on the slide chassis, or the blade is buckled.
If the wood tightens up between the overhead guard support and the fence, switch off and wait until
the blade stops before withdrawing the piece. Increase the rear fence setting slightly and repeat the
cut. An extra 0.5-1mm on the rear fence settings is okay to prevent jamming.
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If the blade marks the work piece as it is slowing down, simply pull the wood out sideways once
you've cut through.
If you can't complete your cut, because the blade tip doesn't quite reach the crosscut fence, either raise
the table slightly, or move the saw slightly forward on the slide chassis, or pack out the MDF subfence.
Remove any uncut fibres, and check for accuracy as described earlier.
For an error ALONG the cut, check that the fence was fully home in the T-slots and that there was
no sawdust between the wood and the fence. Always hold the square against the edge that was
against the fence.
For an error ACROSS the cut, you probably have some "saw slump", or flex between the saw motor
and its baseplate. You have four options to rectify the problem:
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72mm
Adjust table square
to the blade
3
TEST CUTS - Crosscut Mode
80mm
Unlock the trigger strap and use the trigger
normally.
With the power
end to end, to check that the blade tip is clear of
the table slot.
Take a straight piece of wood, at least 300 mm
long, hold it with your right hand, and push the saw
with your left.
1
Hold the wood firmly, pushing it
down on the table and against the fence. Check the
blade is not touching the wood before switching on.
Gently and smoothly make the cut, without forcing
the saw. If you have to push hard, or if there's a
burning smell, sharpen or replace the blade.
Avoid pulling a spinning blade back towards you.
The offcut - especially a small one - could be re-cut
by the back of the blade, with a bang!
1. Build a compensating angle into the table
position, so that the table remains square to the
2
blade. In
, the table support rails are set at
72mm on one side, and 80mm on the other.
2. Obtain the Triton Saw Stabilising Bracket
(ABA020) which provides a strong brace for the
motor, yet still allows easy blade height and
angle adjustments;
3. Upgrade to a saw with better motor mounts;
4. Adjust the blade angle slightly every time you
convert between modes.
If there's a step in the cut , or a high spot or a
burn mark, see Arbor float on Page 14.
off, push the saw from
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