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The refrigerator
seems noisy
Refrigerator noise has been reduced over the years. Due to this
reduction, you may hear intermittent
noises from your new
refrigerator that you did not notice from your old model. Below
are listed some normal sounds with explanations.
•
Buzzing - heard when the water valve opens to fill the ice
maker
•
Pulsating - fans/compressor
adjusting to optimize
performance
•
Hissing/Rattling
- flow of refrigerant, movement of water
lines, or from items placed on top of the refrigerator
•
Sizzling/Gurgling
- water dripping on the heater during
defrost cycle
•
Popping - contraction/expansion
of inside walls, especially
during initial cool-down
•
Water running - may be heard when ice melts during the
defrost cycle and water runs into the drain pan
•
Creaking/Cracking
- occurs as ice is being ejected from the
ice maker mold.
The doors will not close completely
•
Door blocked open? Move food packages away from door.
•
Bin or shelf in the way? Push bin or shelf back in the correct
position.
The doors are difficult to open
!
Explosion Hazard
Use nonflammable
cleaner.
Failure to do so can result in death, explosion,
or fire.
•
Gaskets dirty or sticky? Clean gaskets and contact surfaces
with mild soap and warm water. Rinse and dry with soft cloth.
Temperature is too warm
•
New installation?
Allow 24 hours following installation for the
refrigerator to cool completely.
•
Door(s) opened often or left open? Allows warm air to enter
refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors fully
closed.
•
Large load of food added? Allow several hours for
refrigerator to return to normal temperature.
•
Controls
set correctly
for the surrounding
conditions?
Adjust the controls a setting colder. Check temperature
in
24 hours. See "Using the Control(s)."
There is interior
moisture buildup
NOTE: Some moisture buildup is normal.
•
Humid room? Contributes
to moisture buildup.
•
Door(s) opened often or left open? Allows humid air to
enter refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors
fully closed.
The ice maker is not producing
ice or not enough ice
•
Refrigerator connected to a water supply and the supply
shutoff valve turned on? Connect refrigerator to water
supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open.
•
Kink in the water source line? A kink in the line can reduce
water flow. Straighten the water source line.
•
Ice maker turned on? Make sure wire shutoff arm or switch
(depending on model) is in the ON position.
•
New installation?
Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation
for ice production to begin. Wait 72 hours for full ice
production.
•
Freezer door closed completely?
Firmly close the freezer
compartment
door. If the freezer compartment
door will not
close all the way, see "The doors will not close completely,"
earlier in this section.
•
Large amount of ice recently removed? Allow 24 hours for
ice maker to produce more ice.
•
Ice cube jammed
in the ice maker ejector
arm?
Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil.
•
Water filter installed
on the refrigerator?
Remove filter and
operate ice maker. If ice volume improves, then the filter may
be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it
correctly.
•
Reverse osmosis water filtration
system connected to
your cold water supply? This can decrease water pressure.
See "Water Supply Requirements."
The ice cubes are hollow or small
NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure.
•
Water shutoff
valve not fully open? Turn the water shutoff
valve fully open.
•
Kink in the water source line? A kink in the line can reduce
water flow. Straighten the water source line.
•
Water filter installed
on the refrigerator?
Remove filter and
operate ice maker. If ice quality improves, then the filter may
be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it
correctly.
•
Reverse osmosis water filtration
system connected to
your cold water supply? This can decrease water pressure.
See "Water Supply Requirements."
•
Questions remain regarding
water
pressure? Call a
licensed, qualified plumber.
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