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4.4
Cut the front and rear braces (9) and (10) from 8 mm Ø aluminium tube. Squeeze the tubing flat
over a length of 5 mm as shown, using a vice.
Trim the bottom ends to meet the guard plate neatly, and glue them in place using simple butt-
joints.
5.
Parts (11) to (18), (20), (21) and (23) are die-cut plywood components which are joined together
to form the internal framework of the model.
5.1
Important: note the spacings between the main axis of the VS units and the bow bulkheads
(12) and centre bulkhead (13): these distances should be 106 mm and 92 mm respectively.
5.2
Take the time to trim the plywood parts carefully, so that they fit really accurately inside the hull.
The forestem (11) must be relieved at the point where the front brace (9) is glued to the hull.
5.3
Fit two reinforcing strips to the underside of the servo plate (18). Fix the plate to the mounting
rails (19) and (22) using four self-tapping screws as shown in the drawing, so that it can be
removed at any time.
6.
Install the battery supports (24) and the battery locating rails (25) and (26). We now recommend
that you temporarily install the VS units and servos and set up the control travels accurately:
when the transmitter stick is at centre, the control points N should be at the centre of the circle.
If you use a servo output arm which gives a lever length of about 11 mm (measured from the
servo output shaft axis to the ball-link) you will need around 40% to 50% of full servo travel.
This can be set on the transmitter.
7.
We suggest that the water pump for the fire monitors be mounted on the stern plate (24) using
Velcro tape, so that it can be removed easily and conveniently at any time.
The water connections are shown in the longitudinal cross-section. Glue a 15 mm length of
5/4.1 mm Ø brass tube in the centre of the hull bottom to form the water intake, and connect the
pump to it.
8.
Once all the work on the interior of the hull is complete, the deck (28) can be fitted.
8.1
Drill holes for the anchor hawse pipes as shown in the drawing; the pipes are 6/5.2 Ø x 50 mm
in size. Cut them to exact length and glue them in place securely.
8.2
At this point the deck can be glued in place permanently; take care not to distort the hull in any
way.
9.
It is advisable to remove the VS units again at this stage, and paint the hull in the colour
scheme shown in the kit box illustrations. Below the waterline the hull is red, above it black. The
deck should be light grey. Before painting we recommend that you mask out the lateral vertical
surfaces to which the bulwark (30) is glued later. Use masking tape for this.
10.
The bulwark (30) features pre-cut machined openings to accept the two-part cable hawses (31).
Cut out the cable hawses from the scrap material, trim them to match the shape of the bulwark
and glue them in place. Repeat the procedure with the buffer strip (32).
10.1 The bulwark can be painted separately: mask out the inside vertical surface, and paint it black
on the outside, light grey on the inside.
10.2 The bulwark is glued to the hull next: fix it temporarily with several strips of adhesive tape, with
the bottom edge flush with the bottom edge of the deck, then apply cyano along the joint.
11.
Trim the length of each bulwark stanchion (33) to fit individually. Paint the stanchions and allow
the paint to dry before gluing them in place.
The superstructure
12.
Trim the frame (35) to fit in the pre-cut machine-trimmed superstructure moulding (34). Lay the
frame on the camber of the deck, place the superstructure over it, and tack the frame to the
inside of the superstructure with a few drops of cyano. Remove the assembly and run cyano all
round the joint.
12.1 The cross-pieces (36) and longitudinal bearers (37) should now be glued in the superstructure
as shown in order to stiffen the roof area.
13.
Trim the frame (39) to fit snugly in the machine-trimmed wheelhouse (38) and glue the parts
together.
14.
Glue the side cladding (40) in place, butting up against the wheelhouse, then fill the joints and
sand back carefully so that the transition to the side panels is invisible.
Tip: to achieve a truly flush joint first lay the wheelhouse (38) down on one side on a piece of
polythene film (to avoid it becoming stuck), then tack the side cladding (40) in place using
cyano.
Repeat with the other side.
14.1 Cut out the marked opening for the door window in the wheelhouse centre section.
15.
Glue the roof support (43) in the top section of the wheelhouse (42), then to the centre section
of the wheelhouse (41).
15.1 At this point the two aluminium tube consoles (63) should also be cut to length and fixed in the
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