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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
ALBATROS
HULL
PHOTO 1. Assemble the hull structure by following the numerical order of the drawing. Before gluing the frames in place make
sure that they are correctly fitted into position "abutting" up against the corresponding slots on the false keel. It is important that
the frames are completely perpendicular to the false keel. For this operation use white glue (carpenter's glue) as the adhesive.
PHOTO 2. Line the frame, no. 9, using the lining, no. 13, working from the bottom upwards. Use contact glue (cobbler's glue),
as an adhesive. (Carefully read the manufacturer's instructions for use).
PHOTO 3. Using a cutter, eliminate the excess frame lining. Make sure you don't place your fingers in the line of the cut.
PHOTO 4. Using a pencil, draw a line that divides the deck, no. 14, lengthways into two equal parts.
PHOTO 5. Start to line the deck working from the centre outwards, fit one strip next to the other until the deck is completely
covered. For this operation use contact glue (cobbler's glue).
PHOTO 6. Turn this part over and, resting on a flat surface, trim away the excess lining.
PHOTO 7. To simulate the planking effect and the caulking of the deck, using a pencil, highlight the lengthways lines that mark
out the edges of the strips of lining. Alternately mark out crossways lines every 100 mm. Finally pencil in dots next to the
crossways lines, to simulate nails.
PHOTO 8. Following the same procedure as in photos 4, 5, 6 and 7 line the deck, no. 16 using the lining, no. 17.
PHOTO 9. Glue the decks onto the structure of the ship. It is important that the decks should be correctly adapted to the top part
of the frames and the false keel. Use a quick-drying glue for this process.
PHOTO 10. Glue the reinforcing chocks, nos. 18, 19 and 20, to the false keel. The chocks, nos. 19 and 18 will have to be
adapted to the main deck.
PHOTO 11. Glue the reinforcing chocks, nos. 21 and 22, into place as shown in the image.
PHOTO 12. In order to achieve a good surface contact for the lining strakes, with the help of a sander, sand down the
reinforcing chocks and the edge of the frames, working from bow to stern. The false keel at the bow must be left sharp.
PHOTO 13. Carry out the same operation as in the previous photo but this time at the stern of the ship, and sanding from stern
to bow.
PHOTO 14. Line one side of each bulwark, no. 23, using the lining, no. 24. Use contact glue for this work.
PHOTO 15. Glue the bulwarks into place on the hull structure, marrying the slots of the bulwarks to the slots in the decks. The
lined parts of the bulwarks must be facing the inside of the ship.
PHOTO 16. Using a sander, sand down the stern area of the hull shown in the image.
PHOTO 17. Line the upper stern, no. 25, using the lining, no. 26, and, with a cutter, trim off the excess. Use contact glue for this
work.
PHOTO 18. Glue the upper stern into place at the back end of the hull, with the lining facing the inside of the ship.
PHOTO 19. Drill a through-hole on each side of the slot for the bowsprit. Before fitting the waterways, immerse them in water for
at least one hour, so that the wood can recover its original elasticity. Using quick-drying glue, tightly glue the waterways into
place in the joint between the bulwarks and the deck.
PHOTO 20. Glue the parts, nos. 28, 29 and 30, into place on the quarter deck.
PHOTO 21. Using the same process as you followed when lining the decks, nos. 14 and 16, line the deck, no. 31, using the
lining, no. 32.
PHOTO 22. Glue the lined deck at the bow end of the hull, tight up against the top of the bulwarks and glue the finial, no. 33, to
the edge of the deck. Use quick-drying glue for this work.
PHOTO 23. Before starting to line the hull, immerse the lining strakes, no. 34, in water for about an hour, so that the wood can
recover its elasticity. Starting from the central frames, glue and pin a lining strake along the centre of the hull, with the pins A.
Line the hull on both sides simultaneously, i.e. for each strake fitted to the left side fit its opposite number on the right side. Use
white glue for this process.
PHOTO 24. The lining strakes must come together at the bow, covering the false keel and the reinforcing chocks. Trim off any
excess lining.
PHOTO 25. The lining must also cover the stern reinforcing chocks and must run as far as the upper stern.
PHOTO 26. Line the hull, starting off the process from the first strake and working up towards the bulwarks. At the same time
continue lining from the false keel up towards the first strake.
PHOTO 27. To finish off the lining of the hull make, to measure, a number of lengths of strake to fill in the gaps. These usually
come to a point at one end.
PHOTO 28. To complete the lining of the stern make up a number of wedge shaped pieces.
PHOTO 29. Having finished the lining process, sand down the whole of the hull and file down the heads of the pins using a file.
PHOTO 30. On the false keel, in the bow area, a flat area with a thickness of 4 mm. must be left
PHOTO 31. At the false keel, in the stern area, a 4 mm. thick flat area must be left.
PHOTO 32. Using contact glue as an adhesive line the upper stern using the lining, no. 35, and file down the excess.
PHOTO 33. Line the bulwarks using the lining, no. 36, starting from the base and working up until they are completely covered.
Make up the lining simultaneously on both sides of the hull. Use contact glue as an adhesive. Using a cutter, trim away the
lining from the gun ports.
PHOTO 34. Start lining the hull using the lining, no. 37, just below the lining of the bulwarks and continuing down towards the
false keel. In this case also use contact glue.
PHOTO 35. Continue lining the hull from the false keel up towards the bulwarks.
PHOTO 36. To finish off the lining of the hull make, to measure, a number of lengths of strake to fill in the gaps.
PHOTO 37. To complete the lining of the stern make up a number of wedge shaped pieces.
PHOTO 38. When the lining has been completed, sand down the hull using fine grain sandpaper.
PHOTO 39. A 4 mm. thick flat area must be left at the bow.
PHOTO 40. A 4 mm. thick flat area must also be left on the false keel in the stern area.
PHOTO 41. First check Plan 1, then glue the parts, nos. 38, 39, 40 and 41, into place.
PHOTO 42. Select the strips to make up the rubbing strakes, no. 42. File down the strips and immerse them in water so that
they gain in elasticity. Fit and glue the rubbing strakes to the hull using quick-drying glue. The rubbing strakes must run from the
stem to the upper stern. See Plan 1.
PHOTO 43. Drill a 6 mm. ø hole next to the stern post and, using quick-drying glue, glue the parts, nos. 43, 44 and 45, into
place.
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