at chest level for vertical cuts.
-
To carry out work to the tree trunk and with low side thrusts, the operator must stand in a
-
stable position in order to work in a safe position.
If the operator needs to move away from the tree trunk and therefore requires a supporting
point, being suspended by means of ropes between a safe top anchoring point and the sling
may prove to be a good working position (see fig.15).
Fig.16 shows an example of a temporary foot strap.
Starting the chain saw on a tree
To start the chain saw on a tree, the operator must:
IF ENGINE IS COLD
-
Ask the operator on the ground to start and warm up the engine.
-
apply the chain brake (fig. 30);
FOR THE OPERATOR STANDING ON TREE:
As the engine is pre-heated, rise the "I" lever (Fig.31 part.1).
HOLD CHAIN SAW IN ONE OF 2 WAYS SPECIFIED BELOW:
FIRSTOPTION – Tightly hold the front handle with your left hand, keeping the chain saw away
from your body and pull the starting cord with your right hand.
SECOND OPTION – Tightly hold one of the two handles with your right hand, keeping the chain
saw away from your body and pull the starting cord with your left hand.
•
Before suspending the chain saw on the rope (with engine on), always apply the
chain brake (fig.30).
•
Before carrying out a critical cut, the operator must always check that there is
enough fuel in the tank.
Using the chain saw with one hand
-
Do not use the chain saw for tree service with one hand:
in an unstable position;
-
when cutting branches of small diameter parts of the tree and at the top of trees.
-
The chain saw for tree service can be used with one hand in the following circum-
-
stances:
1)
when no other working position suitable for working with 2 hands can be found;
2)
when ensuring a working position with the left hand is required;
3)
when the operator needs to lean forward a lot (see fig.17).
The operator must never:
1) Cut branches using the nose of the guide bar subject to kickback (see chapter 2 paragraph
A.19);
2) hold and cut the part of the branch to be removed;
3) try to hold a falling branch.
SPIKE: When cutting very thick branches, it is useful to penetrate the wood with the spike teeth,
to cut with less effort and for a more controlled cutting action.
Removing the guide bar stuck in the wood
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