Ryobi EMS-2026SCL Manuel D'utilisation page 30

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OPERATION
Place the workpiece flat on the mitre table with one
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edge securely against the fence. If the board is
warped, place the convex side against the fence (13)
and clamp the vice (12) (Fig. 28a). If the concave
edge of a board is placed against the fence (13), the
board could collapse on the blade at the end of the
cut, jamming the blade (Fig. 28b).
When cutting long pieces of timber or molding,
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support the overhanding end(s) of the stock with the
material supports.
Press and hold the laser on/off switch (1) to turn the
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laser on.
Align cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of
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saw blade.
Use the vice (12) to secure the workpiece against the
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fence (13).
WARNING
To avoid serious personal injury, keep your
hands outside the no hands zone; at least
75 mm from the blade. Never perform any cutting
operation freehand (without holding workpiece
against the fence). The blade could grab the
workpiece if it slips or twists.
Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run of the
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cutting operation just to make sure that no problems
will occur when the cut is made.
Grasp the saw handle firmly, then squeeze the
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trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade to reach
maximum speed.
Press the release level for locking the lower guard
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and then slowly lower the blade into and through the
workpiece.
Release the trigger and allow the saw blade to stop
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rotating before raising the blade out of workpiece.
COMPOUND MITRE CUT (Fig. 31)
A compound mitre cut is a cut made using a mitre angle
and a bevel angle at the same time. This type of cut is
used to make picture frames, cut molding, make boxes
with sloping sides, and for certain roof framing cuts.
To make this type of cut the mitre table must be rotated to
the correct angle and the saw arm must be tilted to the
correct bevel angle. Care should always be taken when
making compound mitre setups due to the interaction of
the two angle settings.
E I P NL S DK N FIN
English
Adjustments of mitre and bevel settings are inter-
dependent with one another. Each time you adjust the
mitre setting you change the effect of the bevel setting.
Also, each time you adjust the bevel setting you change
the effect of the mitre setting.
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut.
The first angle setting should be checked after setting the
second angle, since adjusting the second angle affects
the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have
been obtained, always made a test cut in scrap wood
before making a finish cut in good wood (Fig. 31).
TO MAKE A COMPOUND CUT WITH YOUR MITRE
SAW (Fig. 32):
Pull out the lock pin and lift the saw head to its
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full height.
Loosen the mitre table lock knob.
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Rotate the mitre table until the pointer aligns with the
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desired angle on the mitre scale.
Tighten the mitre table lock knob.
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Note: You can quickly locate 0°, 15°, 22.5°, 30° left or
right and 45° left or right on the scale. The mitre table
can be seated in one of the positive stop notches,
located in the mitre table frame.
WARNING
To avoid serious personal injury, keep your
hands outside the no hands zone; at least
75 mm from the blade. Never perform any cutting
operation freehand (without holding workpiece
against the fence). The blade could grab the
workpiece if it slips or twists.
Tighten the mitre lock handle securely.
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Adjustments of the sliding fence (24) must be made
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to correspond to the desired angle of the bevel cut
prior to tilting the saw arm. Loosen the fence screw
on the rear fence (13), slide the fence to the desired
position, and retighten the fence screw (Fig. 30).
Loosen the bevel lock lever (16) and move the saw
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arm to the left to the desired bevel angle.
Bevel angles can be set from 0° to 45°.
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Align the indicator point with the desired angle.
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Once the saw arm has been set at the desired angle,
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securely tighten the bevel lock lever.
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