DeWalt DW712 Guide D'utilisation page 10

643000-00,01,DW712,A4 6/7/06 9:19 AM
TO CUT AN OUTSIDE CORNER JOINT:
1. Cut the left side.
A. Set the miter at 45° right.
B. Save the left side of the cut.
2. Cut the right side.
A. Set the miter at 45° left.
B. Save the right side of the cut.
Material up to 3-1/4" (82mm) can be cut as described above.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING USING THE BEVEL FEATURE
Make all cuts for 90˚ corner joints with the saw set at a 45°
bevel angle and a 0° miter angle.
TO MAKE AN INSIDE CORNER JOINT:
1. Cut the left side.
A. Position the molding with the
flat, narrow side against the
fence and the flat, broad side
against the saw table as
shown (position A).
B. Set the bevel at 45° left.
C. Save the left side of the cut.
2. Cut the right side.
A. Position the molding with the
curved, narrow edge against
the fence. The broad, flat side
of the molding should still be
placed against the table of the
saw (position B).
B. Set the bevel at 45° left
C. Save the left side of the cut.
TO MAKE AN OUTSIDE CORNER JOINT:
1. Cut the left side.
A. Position the molding with the flat, narrow side against the
fence as shown (position A).
B. Set the bevel at 45° left.
C. Save the right side of cut.
2. Cut the right side.
A. Position the molding with the curved, narrow edge against
the fence (position B). The broad, flat side of the molding
should still be placed against the table of the saw.
B. Set the bevel at 45° left.
C. Save the right side of the cut.
Page 8
CUTTING MOLDING RETURNS
A "return" is cut to finish the end of a
chair rail or base molding. This piece is
a form of outside miter cut in which one
piece is very short. To make this cut,
place a piece of molding with a square
cut end into the saw. Set the miter
angle to 45˚ left. Slowly pull the blade
through the molding, stopping before
the piece is cut through. Before stop-
ping the motor,
slightly and then release the trigger. This will leave the "return"
still connected to the molding by a small piece of wood.
Remove the wood from the saw and break the return from the
molding. This procedure prevents chipping of the small piece
of molding.
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
Crown molding
POSITION A
with extreme accuracy to fit proper-
ly. On crown molding, the two flat
surfaces designed to fit against the
ceiling and the wall are cut in com-
plementary angles to the front of the
molding. Complementary angles,
when added together, equal exactly
90°. In most crown molding the sur-
face that fits flat against the ceiling and the back of the molding
POSITION B
form an angle of 52˚. The bottom surface that fits flat against
the wall and the back of the molding form an angle of 38˚.
Your sliding compound miter saw has pre-set miter stops at
31.6° left and right for cutting crown molding flat at the proper
angle to fit 90° inside and outside corners. There is also a mark
on the bevel scale at 33.85°.
The inset box on page 10 gives the proper settings for cutting
crown molding with the flat, broad surface placed on the saw
table as shown. The angles for the miter and bevel settings are
very precise and are easy to accurately set on your saw by
using the pre-set stop settings.
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING ANGLED BETWEEN THE
FENCE AND TABLE (NESTED)
Place the molding on the table at an
angle between the fence and the saw
table, as shown. We recommend using
the crown molding fence accessory
(DW7084) because it affords accuracy
and convenience. The crown molding
fence accessory is available at extra cost
from your local dealer.
MOLDING
RETURN
lift the sawhead up
must be cut
8
The advantage to cutting crown molding using the nested
method is that no bevel is required. Minute changes in the miter
angle can be made without adjusting the bevel angle. This way,
when cutting molding for unsquare corners, the saw can be
quickly and easily adjusted.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
ANGLED BETWEEN THE FENCE AND SAW TABLE
1.
Use the crown molding fence accessory to position the
molding at the angle at which it will be installed on the wall.
Position the molding so that the bottom (curved edge) of the
molding is against the fence and the top (pointed edge) of
the molding is resting on the base of the saw, as shown.
2.
The angled "flats" on the back of the molding must rest
squarely on the fence and base of the saw.
TO MAKE AN INSIDE CORNER JOINT:
1. Cut the left side.
A. Set the miter at 45° right.
B. Save the right side of the cut.
2. Cut the right side.
A. Set the miter at 45° left
B. Save left side of the cut.
TO MAKE AN OUTSIDE CORNER JOINT:
1. Cut the left side.
A. Set the miter at 45° left.
B. Save the right side of the cut.
2. Cut the right side.
A. Set the miter at 45° right.
B. Save the left side of cut.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND
OTHER FOUR-SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we sug-
gest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood until
you develop a feel for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the ones
shown below. Sketch A shows a joint made using the bevel
adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45° to pro-
duce a 90° corner. For this joint the miter arm is locked in the
zero position and the bevel adjustment is locked at 45°. The
wood is positioned with the broad flat side against the table and
the narrow edge against the fence. Alternatively, the cut could
be made by setting the bevel adjustment to the zero position
and setting the miter at 45˚. In this case the wood is positioned
so that the broad, flat side is against the table and the narrow
side is against the fence.