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6.0 Faults diagram
Is a 230V or 380V
Check the (main)
no
power supply pre-
fuse plus the
sent between termi-
operating switch,
nals N and L?
if present.
yes
Room thermostat
Is a power supply
no
present between
circuit has been
terminals 4 and N?
interrupted (between
terminals A and 2)
yes
Is a power supply
Isolating transformer
no
present between
defect (if applicable)
terminals 3 and 5?
yes
1 Max. thermostat
Is 230V or 380V
present between
or safety ther-
no
terminal 11 and
mostat has been
terminal 10 of the
interrupted either
due to interloc-
automatic burner?
king or else
because it is
defective. (See the
technical manual.)
2 Glass fuse is
defective.
yes
Does the flue gas fan
Does the lamp in the
no
turn?
reset button light up?
yes
Automatic is inter-
locked; check wiring
yes
for the reset lamp
and reset button.
Does the pneumatic
1 Air pressure pipes
no
are blocked or in
switch come up?
incorrect position.
2 Excessive resi-
stance along flue
piping
yes
Does the reset lamp
Is ignition achieved
no
light up?
after flushing out for
up to 60 seconds?
yes
1 Ignition cable is disconnected.
2 Ignition electrode is dirty or not
properly in place.
yes
3 Automatic burner is defective
1 no gas
Is a flame produced?
2 air in the gas
no
3 gas valves do not
open
yes
10
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yes
Does the flame burn
continuously?
yes
Burner is
operational.
Is the pneumatic
no
switch in the off
position?
yes
Flue gas fan or relay
K1 is defective.
Check connections
no
to the reset lamp
and reset button.
1 Automatic burner
yes
is defective
2 Gas valve is
defective.
Is the heater mal-
no
no
functioning?
yes
Have phase and
no
neutral been
swapped around?
Check wiring and
no
adjustment of the
ionisation pin.
1 Air pressure pipes
no
are blocked.
2 Pneumatic
switch is defective.
The flame is going
out due to the incor-
rect mounting or
type of flue gas
system.
Has the equipment
been properly
earthed?
yes
Is the ionisation
current above 3 µA?
yes
Automatic burner is
defective.
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