Keep in mind that, when given the choice, well-
retracted cams (illustration 3) make a better, more
reliable placement than cams which are almost
completely extended.
Remove the unit from your rack and retract the cams
◆
by pulling back the trigger bar.
Insert the unit, cams-first, into the crack with the stem
◆
pointing toward the direction of loading (illustration 4).
Release the trigger bar and let the cams spring
◆
outward. All cams must contact the rock to make a
good placement.
Give the Camalot C3 a tug in the direction of
◆
expected pull. Ideally, the unit should be immobile.
It should not "walk" or rotate on its cams. If you
think rope movement will cause it to walk out of
position, clip a quickdraw or long runner between
the Camalot and your rope.
Clip the unit into the rope using a carabiner
◆
attached to the end of the sling or wire
loop (illustrations 5 and 6).
Please Note: Clipping directly into the
wire loop with a carabiner can reduce
the strength of the unit by up to 2 kN
(450 lbf).
Never clip as shown in illustration
◆
7 or 8.
Train yourself to imagine
◆
the entire pitch as a system of
protection. Never rely on a single piece
of pro to keep you off the ground.
Flaring cracks, which widen downward or toward the front, are difficult
◆
to protect with any gear. The more a crack flares the less reliable any
placement becomes.
Because Camalot C3s are flexible units, their stems can be loaded over
◆
edges, although some strength will be sacrificed. Loading a unit without
bending it is always preferable. If you load a Camalot C3 with its stem
Illustration 5
Illustration 3
Illustration 4
Illustration 6