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Step 5: Attach fence rail
Attach the fence rail (1.7, 7.5) to the angle unit (1.5, 7.4) by
sliding the the fence rail with one of its grooves onto the two
square nuts (7.3) of the angle unit. Situate the fence rail so
that approximately 1 1/2" of the fence rail extends past the
end of the angle unit, and tighten the screws (7.2).
Place the angle unit on the table top in the rear row of holes
(in holes 3 and 4 counting from right to left on the MFT 800/
holes 4 and 5 on the MFT 1080). Tighten in place, from below,
with the two grip knobs (7.1).
Step 6: Calibrate angle
Random angles can be set at the swivel segment after raising
the positioning pin (8.3), with catches being provided for the
most commonly used angles.
Use a true square to check the 90° angle between the guide
rail and the fence rail. To adjust, loosen the release screw
(8.2) of the angle unit and swivel the fence rail until it is at a
true 90°. Now tighten down the release screw.
Use the fence rail clamp (8.1) to stabilize the fence rail. Insert
the clamp's feather key into the channel at the left corner of
the profile frame and slide it down to the fence rail. Then
swing the rib of the clamp into the groove of the fence rail
and tighten the rotary knob.
Step 7: Adjusting workpiece thickness
When making cuts, the guide rail should always lay flat on
the work piece. To raise or lower the guide rail unlock the
clamps (9.1) on the hinged rail support and pinned rail support
units and adjust them to the thickness of the material to be
cut.
For work pieces thinner than the thickness of the fence rail
(1/2"), put a piece of shim under the work piece so that the
top of the work piece is at least flush with the top of the fence
rail (see figure 10).
Step 8: Adjusting depth of cut
Make sure that your depth of cut is set correctly. Set the
depth of the saw 1-3 mm larger than the thickness of the
workpiece. Any deeper and you risk cutting into the metal
profile frame.
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