Break‐In Fires
This wood burning unit is constructed of heavy gauge steel and cast iron and is built to last a
long time. However, in order to ensure no excessive thermal stresses are induced on the metal
during the first fire, three break‐in fires should be burned, each one slightly hotter than the last.
These break‐in fires will not only help the stove body acclimate to the high temperatures of the
fire, but will also slowly cure the high temperature stove paint, which will ensure the high
quality finish lasts for years.
This stove has a single air control rod which regulates the wood burn rate; when the primary air
control slide is pulled all the way out of the unit, the stove will burn more slowly and put out
heat over a longer time period. Conversely, when the air control slide is pushed all the way in,
the unit will burn more quickly and put out a larger amount of heat over a relatively shorter
time period. Do not attempt to modify the range of air control adjustment for any reason.
The first break‐in fire should be just a large kindling fire, getting the stove to about 300°F as
measured by a magnetic thermometer on the right or left side of the stove, above the door.
Once this temperature has been reached, allow the fire to die out with the air control open. The
second and third break‐in fires should be a bit larger, with some small dry splits added to the
kindling load. The temperature goal during these fires is about 350°F – 450°F; don't let the fire
get hotter than that.
Continuous Operation
After the break‐in fires are complete, this unit is ready for continuous operation. When burning
the stove continuously, do not allow ash and coals to accumulate higher than 1.0" below the
door opening. Excessive coaling is often a result of burning wood at too high a burn rate, and
the coal bed should be allowed to burn down before reloading the stove with fresh wood.
Combustion air is delivered to the stove at two locations: The majority of the primary
combustion air enters the firebox via the air‐wash system which keeps the glass clean and feeds
the primary combustion flames on the top surfaces of the wood; some primary combustion air is
bled off into the coal bed via bleed holes in the bottom rail of the air‐wash system. Every effort
must be taken to maintain the area in front of these holes free of ash.
When loading the stove for a long term burn, it is most useful to rake a "v" in the center of the
coal bed, to allow the primary air bleed holes to push air all the way to the rear of the unit.
After loading the stove with a full firebox of fresh wood, it is important to operate the unit with
the air control in the full open position to properly char the wood load and drive off the initial
moisture in the fresh wood. Once the wood has been properly charred and is completely
ignited, the air control can then be set to the desired heat output level.
In the event of a creosote or soot fire (chimney fire), close the air control on the
stove, contact the local fire department and get out! Do not throw water on the fire!
Contact your local fire authority for more information on how to handle a chimney
fire and develop a safe evacuation plan for you and your family in the event of a
OPERATION
chimney fire.
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