Cutting Crown Molding - DeWalt DW715 Guide D'utilisation

INSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Miter left 45°
2. Save left side of cut
Right side
1. Miter Right 45°
2. Save right side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Miter right at 45°
2. Save left side of cut
Right side
1. Miter left at 45°
2. Save right side of cut
Material up to 3-5/8" (91mm) can be cut as described
above. For boards [up to 6-3/4" (173mm)] several minor
concessions must be made:
When cutting a board between 3-5/8" (91mm) and
6-3/4" (173mm), the roller on the tip of the guard will
hang up on the workpiece. If this occurs, simply place
your right thumb on the upper side of the guard and roll
the guard up just enough to clear the workpiece, as
shown in Figure 16. Once you have cleared the work-
piece, you can release the guard and it will continue to
open as the cut progresses.
When mitering to the right side of a base molding 3-5/8"
(91mm) standing vertically against the fence as in
Figure 15, the saw can only cut through the board up to
1" (25.4mm) from the end of the board. Trying to cut
more than an inch will cause the saw's gear case to
interfere with the workpiece. If you want to cut base
molding between 3-5/8" (91mm) and 6-3/4" (173mm)
vertically follow the directions on this page.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 1" (25.4mm) THICK
BY 3-5/8"– 6-3/4" (91 x 173mm) WIDE 1" (25.4mm)
VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE
• Position molding as shown in Figure 15
• All cuts made with the back of the molding against the
fence
INSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
Right side
1. Position molding with top of the molding resting on
the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the base of the saw
FIG. 15
FIG. 16
FIG. 17
11
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save left side of cut
NOTE: If the cut must be made somewhere other than
1" from the end of the molding: cut off the molding at
90° approx. 1" (25.4mm) longer than your final length
then make the miter cut as described above.
Right side
1. Position molding with bottom of the molding
against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save the right side of cut
CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 1.8" (45mm) THICK
BY UP TO 7–11/16" (195.6mm) WIDE LAYING FLAT
AND USING THE BEVEL FEATURE
• All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter
• All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the
saw as shown in Figure 17
INSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence
2. Save left side of cut
Right side
1. Position molding with bottom of the molding against
the fence
2. Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Position molding with bottom of the molding against
the fence
2. Save right side of cut
Right side
1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence
2. Save right side of cut

CUTTING CROWN MOLDING

Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting
crown molding than any tool made. In order to fit properly,
crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme
accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding
are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90
degrees. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear
angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52
degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat
against the wall) of 38 degrees.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter latch points at
31.62 degrees left and right for cutting crown molding at the
proper angle and bevel stop pawl at 33.85˚ left. There is
also a mark on the bevel scale at 33.85 degrees.
The chart on page 12 gives the proper settings for cutting
crown molding. (The numbers for the miter and bevel
settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set