EnGLIsh
Vertical Mitre Cross-Cut (Fig. A, P)
1. Squeeze the mitre latch
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. Move the arm left or right to the
required angle.
2. The mitre latch will automatically locate at 0°, 15°, 22.5°, 31.62°, 45° and
50° both left and right. If any intermediate angle is required hold the
head firmly and lock by fastening the mitre latch.
3. Always ensure that the mitre latch is locked tightly before cutting.
4. Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
WARNING: When mitring the end of a piece of wood with a small
off-cut, position the wood to ensure that the off-cut is to the side of the
blade with the greater angle to the fence, i.e.:
-
left mitre, off-cut to the right
-
right mitre, off-cut to the left
Bevel Cross-Cuts (Fig. H, K, Q)
Bevel angles can be set from 0° to 48° to the left. Bevels up to 45° can be cut
with the mitre arm set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position
right or left.
1. Unlock the sliding fence lock lever
the blade.
2. Loosen the bevel clamp handle
3. Set the override button
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if required.
4. Hold the head firmly and do not allow it to fall.
5. Tighten the bevel clamp handle
6. Slide the fence towards the blade making sure it does not touch the
blade, then tighten the fence lock lever by turning clockwise.
7. Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Cutting Non-Ferrous Metals
When cutting non-ferrous metals, the machine is only to be used to
perform vertical straight and mitre cross-cuts in the mitre saw mode.
We recommend that bevel and compound mitre cuts should not be
performed in non-ferrous metals. The machine is not to be used for cutting
ferrous metals.
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Always use a material clamp when cutting non-ferrous metals. Make
sure that the workpiece is clamped securely.
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Only apply saw blades that are qualified for cutting non-ferrous metals.
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When using lubricants, only apply wax or separation spray. Do not use
emulsions or similar fluids.
WARNING: DO NOT use a dust bag or dust extractor when
cutting non-ferrous materials. Risk of ignition by hot particles.
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, i.e., the
material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and
other precision work, a sharp (60-tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even
cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. T)
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure
before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An
unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to,
such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is
firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of
the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to
the base of the saw – not to any other part of the work area. Ensure
the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce
the risk of personal injury and workpiece damage.
For best results use the material clamp
Always use a material clamp when cutting non-ferrous metals. Make sure
that the workpiece is clamped securely.
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40
and move the fence away from
21
and set the bevel as desired.
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firmly.
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made for use with your saw.
To Install Clamp
1. Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp
toward the back of the mitre saw. Ensure the groove on the clamp rod is
fully inserted into the base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the
clamp will not be secure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the mitre saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine
adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
nOTE: Place the clamp on the right side of the base when beveling.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK
THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH
THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
WARNING: Ensure that the material does not creep while cutting;
clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split out at the rear
of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where
the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
Compound Mitre (Fig. R, S)
This cut is a combination of a mitre and a bevel cut. This is the type of cut
used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in
Figure R.
WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that
the bevel clamp handle and the mitre clamping knob are securely
tightened. These must be tightened after making any changes in bevel
or mitre.
WARNING: The saw must be fixed on a base support when
performing compound cuts to prevent tip over (Fig. S). Refer to
Bench Mounting.
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The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and
mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts.
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To use the chart, select the desired angle "A" (Fig. R) of your project and
locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point
follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and
straight across to find the correct mitre angle.
0
5
10
15
20
45
40
35
6 SIDED BOX
30
25
20
15
10
8 SIDED BOX
5
0
5
10
15
20
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
1. Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
2. Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
Example: To make a four-sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle "A")
(Fig. R), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the
horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting
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should be facing
25
30
35
40
45
SQUARE BOX
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
25
30
35
40
45