OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
7. Hold the rotating guard (12) up and press
the spindle lock button (26). Rotate the
blade until the spindle locks.
8. Use the 6mm hex key provided to loosen
and remove the blade bolt. (Loosen in a
clockwise direction as the blade screw has
a left hand thread).
9. Remove the flat washer and outer blade
washer and the blade.
10. Wipe a drop of oil onto the inner blade
washer and the outer blade washer where
they contact the blade.
11. Fit the new blade onto the spindle taking
care that the inner blade washer sits
behind the blade.
CAUTION. To ensure correct blade rotation,
always install the blade with the blade teeth
and the arrow printed on the side of the blade
pointing down. The direction of blade rotation
is also stamped with an arrow on the upper
blade guard.
12. Replace the outer blade washer.
13. Depress the spindle lock button (26) and
replace the flat washer and blade bolt.
14. Use the 6mm hex key to tighten the blade
bolt securely (tighten in an anti-clockwise
direction).
15. Lower the blade guard, hold the rotating
lower blade guard (12) and blade bolt
cover (14) in position and tighten the fixing
screw.
16. Replace the guard retraction arm and
secure onto the rotating blade guard.
17. Check that the blade guard operates
correctly and covers the blade as the saw
arm is lowered.
18. Connect the saw to the power supply
and run the blade to make certain that it
is operating correctly.
Cross-cutting
GB
A crosscut is made by cutting across the grain
of the workpiece. A 90º crosscut is made with
the miter table set at 0º. Miter crosscuts are
made with the table set at some angle other
than zero.
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1. Pull on the release knob (6) and lift the saw
arm (5) to its full height.
2. Loosen the miter lock (25).
3. Rotate the miter table (21) until the pointer
aligns with the desired angle.
4. Retighten the miter lock (25).
WARNING. Be sure to tighten the miter lock
before making a cut. Failure to do so could
result in the table moving during the cut and
cause serious personal injury.
5. Place the workpiece flat on the table with
one edge securely against the fence (19).
If the board is warped, place the convex
side against the fence. If the concave side
is placed against the fence, the board could
break and jam the blade.
6. When cutting long pieces of timber, support
the opposite end of the timber with the side
support bars (32), a roller stand or a work
surface that is level with the saw table.
7. Use the clamp assembly (10) to secure the
workpiece wherever possible.
8. It is possible to remove the clamp assembly
(10) by loosening the clamp assembly lock
(11) and moving it to the other side of the
table. Make sure the clamp assembly lock is
tight before using the clamp.
9. Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run
of the cutting operation to check that there
are no problems.
10. Hold the operating handle (7) firmly and
squeeze the switch trigger (24). Allow the
blade to reach maximum speed.
11. Slowly lower the blade into and through
the workpiece.
12. Release the switch trigger (24) and allow
the saw blade to stop rotating before
raising the blade out of the workpiece.
Wait until the blade stops before removing
the workpiece.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Bevel cut
A bevel cut is made by cutting across the
grain of the workpiece with the blade angled
to the fence and miter table. The miter table is
set at the zero degree position and the blade
set at an angle between 0º and 45º.
1. Pull on the release knob (6) and lift the saw
arm to its full height.
2. Loosen the miter lock (25).
3. Rotate the miter table (21) until the pointer
aligns with zero on the miter scale (22).
4. Retighten the miter lock (25).
WARNING. Be sure to tighten the miter lock
before making a cut. Failure to do so could
result in the table moving during the cut,
causing serious personal injury.
5. Loosen the bevel lock (16) and pull out the
0º bevel adjuster. Move the saw arm (5) to
the left or right to the desired bevel angle
(between 0º and 45º). Tighten the bevel
lock (16).
6. Place the workpiece flat on the table with
one edge securely against the fence (19).
If the board is warped, place the convex
side against the fence. If the concave side
is placed against the fence, the board could
break and jam the blade.
7. When cutting long pieces of timber, support
the opposite end of the timber with the side
bars (32), a roller stand or a work surface
that is level with the saw table.
8. Use the clamp assembly (10) to secure the
workpiece wherever possible.
9. It is possible to remove the clamp assembly
(10) by loosening the clamp assembly lock
(11) and moving it to the other side of the
table. Make sure the clamp assembly lock is
tight before using the clamp.
10. Before turning on the saw, perform a dry
run of the cutting operation to check that
there are no problems.
11. Hold the operating handle (7) firmly and
squeeze the switch trigger (24). Allow the
blade to reach maximum speed.
12. Slowly lower the blade into and through
the workpiece.
13. Release the switch trigger (24) and allow
the saw blade to stop rotating before
raising the blade out of the workpiece.
Wait until the blade stops before removing
the workpiece.
Compound miter cut
A compound miter cut involves using a miter
angle and a bevel angle at the same time.
It is used in making picture frames, to cut
mouldings, making boxes with sloping sides
and for roof framing. Always make a test cut
on a piece of scrap wood before cutting into
the good material.
1. Pull on the release knob (6) and lift the saw
arm to its full height.
2. Loosen the miter lock (25).
3. Rotate the miter table (21) until the pointer
aligns with the desired angle on the miter
scale (22).
4. Retighten the miter lock (25).
WARNING. Be sure to tighten the miter lock
before making a cut. Failure to do so could
result in the table moving during the cut,
causing serious personal injury.
5. Loosen the bevel lock (16) and pull out the
0º bevel adjuster (18) and move the saw
arm (5) to the left or right to the desired
bevel angle (between 0º and 45º). Tighten
the bevel lock (16).
6. Place the workpiece flat on the table with
one edge securely against the fence (19).
If the board is warped, place the convex
side against the fence. If the concave side
is placed against the fence, the board could
break and jam the blade.
7. When cutting long pieces of timber, support
the opposite end of the timber with the side
bars (32), a roller stand or a work surface
that is level with the saw table.
8. Use the clamp assembly (10) to secure the
workpiece wherever possible.
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GB