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SAN ILDEFONSO
Ref. 15004
HULL
PHOTOS 1–4: Assemble the structure of the hull following the numerical order of the photos. Start by joining together the two parts that make
up the false keel (1) and then glue on the reinforcements (X) on both sides of the keel. Before gluing the frames into place, parts (2 – 12), make
sure that they fit correctly into place "flush" against the corresponding slots in the false keel. It is important to make sure that the frames are
completely perpendicular to the false keel so that the decks can subsequently be correctly fitted into place. Also fit the reinforcements (13 & 14).
Use white glue as the adhesive for this operation.
PHOTO 5: Now turn this skeleton upside down and place it on a flat surface. Through the rear frame of the hull insert the crossbeams (15) that
will serve as reinforcements. But do not glue them into place yet, wait until all of the frames and decks have been installed, see Step 13.
PHOTO 6: Glue the frames (16 & 17) into place, maintaining the same order as indicated in the photo, Use white glue.
PHOTO 7: The reinforcements (18, 19 & 20) are also glued into place using white glue. Make sure that they are in a completely horizontal
position.
PHOTOS 8 & 9: Glue the reinforcements (21 & 22) to the stern, on both sides of the false keel. At the bow, glue into place the reinforcements
(23 – 26), also on both sides of the false keel.
PHOTOS 10 & 11: Fit and glue the parts (27) to the bow and the stern, to make up the halves of the deck. Line the two halves of the deck using
the planking (28). Cut to unequal lengths and start by lining the straightest area. Use contact adhesive, having first carefully read the
manufacturer's instructions. Trim off any excess planking using a cutter. To simulate the planking and caulking effect on the decks, using a
pencil mark the lengthways lines that delimit the lining strips.
PHOTOS 12 & 13: Before gluing the lined decks into place on the structure of the ship, gently sand them down to eliminate any possible snags.
It is also important that the decks be correctly supported on the frames. For this process use fast-setting glue. In continuation glue the
crossbeams (15) to the frames to make sure that the structure is well aligned and firm. Varnish the whole of the deck using a colourless, satin
finish pore-filler varnish.
PHOTO 14: Use a 5 x 5 mm strip to make up the deck beams (29), cutting them to the length of the space of each frame, and then glue them
into place using white glue.
PHOTO 15: To the stern fit the reinforcements (30), slotted into the last frame, and over these the reinforcement (31), use fast-setting glue.
PHOTOS 16–19: Following the same procedure as for photos 10 & 11, fit into place and glue the two deck parts (32), which make up the
halves of the main deck. Now line this deck using the planking (33). The slots around the perimeter of the deck must be covered over. Only the
slots at the back, which pertain to the last frames, will be opened up again.
Now glue the lined decks to the structure of the ship. It is important to make sure that the decks are correctly aligned with the tops of the frames.
For this process use a fast-setting glue.
PHOTO 20: Cut the lower deck beams (34 & 35) to size and glue them underneath the deck and flush with the opening.
PHOTO 21: Trim the three crossways deck beams so that they only project out around 16 mm from the deck. Now glue the strips (37) across
the front of the deck beams. These strips will also be held in place underneath by pieces of the rod (38). Use fast-setting glue.
PHOTO 22: Before starting to sand down the hull, glue the central reinforcements (36), slotted into place in the last frame and the top deck. Fit
the two reinforcements without slots to the sides. Use white glue.
PHOTOS 23–27: In order to ensure a good contact surface for the bulwarks and the gun ports, using a sander or a file, sand or file down the
edges of the frames, working from bow to stern. For the moment this operation only needs to be done on the step of each of the frames.
Take a look at the following steps to get some idea of where the bulwarks and gun ports are going to be fitted. These steps must be repeated
on both sides of the hull.
The filing must also be done along the length of the hull and at the stern, while the edge of the main deck will have to be adjusted so that the
gun ports and bulwarks (40, 41, 44 & 45) can later be fitted correctly into place.
PHOTOS 28–30: Using the strips of plywood (39) cut out lengths to make up the bases of the guns that will later be pinned to the hull. Cut the
lengths to match the size of the spaces between the frames. Between frames (4 & 9) these lengths will have to be slotted in. Glue them into
place vertically in relation to the deck. Use fast-setting glue.
PHOTOS 31–33: Glue and pin the two parts that make up the gun ports (40) to the structure of the hull. They must be glued into place between
the decks, starting at the stern and working towards the bow. Soak them in water previously so that they become more flexible. Use a fast-
setting glue if necessary for the parts that are most curved.
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