Kickback is the result of saw misuse and/or
incorrect operating procedures or conditions
and can be avoided by taking proper precau-
tions as given below:
• Maintain a fi rm grip with both hands on the
saw and position your arms to resist kickback
forces. Position your body to either side of the
blade, but not in line with the blade. Kickback
could cause the saw to jump backwards, but kick-
back forces can be controlled by the operator, if
proper precautions are taken.
• When blade is binding, or when interrupting
a cut for any reason, release the trigger and
hold the saw motionless in the material until
the blade comes to a complete stop. Never
attempt to remove the saw from the work or
pull the saw backward while the blade is in
motion or kickback may occur. Investigate and
take corrective actions to eliminate the cause of
blade binding.
• When restarting a saw in the workpiece, centre
the saw blade in the kerf and check that saw
teeth are not engaged into the material. If saw
blade is binding, it may walk up or kickback from
the workpiece as the saw is restarted.
• Support large panels to minimise the risk of
blade pinching and kickback. Large panels tend
to sag under their own weight. Supports must be
placed under the panel on both sides, near the line
of cut and near the edge of the panel.
• Do not use dull or damaged blades. Unsharp-
ened or improperly set blades produce narrow
kerf causing excessive friction, blade binding and
kickback.
• Blade depth and bevel adjusting locking levers
must be tight and secure before making cut. If
blade adjustment shifts while cutting, it may cause
binding and kickback.
• Use extra caution when making a "plunge cut"
into existing walls or other blind areas. The
protruding blade may cut objects that can cause
kickback.
General Operation
Always clamp the workpiece securely on a saw
horse or bench (Fig. 11). See "APPLICATIONS"
for the correct way to support your work in differ-
ent situations.
Fig. 11
1. Draw a cutting line. Place the front of the shoe on
the edge of the workpiece without making blade
contact. Hold the Tilt-Lok™ handle with one hand
and the front handle with the other (Fig. 12).
Fig. 12
2. Line up the sight line with your cutting line. Posi-
tion your arms and body to resist KICKBACK.
Pull the trigger, allowing the motor to reach full
speed before beginning to cut.
3. While cutting, keep the shoe fl at against the
workpiece and maintain a fi rm grip. Do not force
the saw through the workpiece. Forcing a saw
can cause KICKBACK.
4. If making a partial cut, restarting in mid-cut or
correcting direction, allow the blade to come to
a complete stop. To resume cutting, center the
blade in the kerf, back the saw away from cutting
edge a few inches, pull the trigger and re-enter
the cut slowly.
5. If the saw binds and stalls, maintain a fi rm grip
and release the trigger immediately. Hold the
saw motionless in the workpiece until the blade
comes to a complete stop.
6. After fi nishing a cut, be sure the lower guard
closes and the blade comes to a complete stop
before setting the saw down.
Electric Brake (Cat. No. 6394)
Select models feature an electrIc brake. The brake
engages when the trigger is released, causing the
blade to stop and allowing you to proceed with your
work. Generally, the saw blade stops within two
seconds. However, there may be a delay between
the time you release the trigger and when the brake
engages. Occasionally the brake may miss com-
pletely. If the brake misses frequently, the saw needs
servicing by an authorized MILWAUKEE service facil-
ity. The brake is not a substitute for the guard, and
you must always wait for the blade to stop completely
before removing the saw from the workpiece. The
correct brush grade must be used for proper opera-
tion of the brake. Use only the correct MILWAUKEE
replacement brushes when servicing the tool.
Troubleshooting
If the blade does not follow a straight line:
• Teeth are dull. This is caused by hitting a hard object
such as a nail or stone, dulling teeth on one side. The
blade tends to cut to the side with the sharpest teeth.
• Shoe is out of line or bent
• Blade is bent
• Rip fence or guide is not being used
If the blade binds, smokes or turns blue from friction:
• Blade is dull
• Blade is on backwards
• Blade is bent
• Blade is dirty
• Workpiece is not properly supported
• Incorrect blade is being used
8
APPLICATIONS
WARNING
To reduce the risk of injury,
wear safety goggles or glasses with side
shields. Unplug the tool before changing ac-
cessories or making adjustments.
Selecting Tilt-Lok™ Handle Positions
The Tilt-Lok™ handle is a feature which allows the
user to adjust the angle of the handle for optimum
cutting positions. The Tilt-Lok™ handle has eight
(8) detents which allow the handle to snap into
position . See "Adjusting Tilt-Lok™ Handle" for
instuctions on adjusting the handle. Refer to the
chart for suggested handle positions.
Suggested Tilt-Lok™
Application
Positions*
For cuts made
Handle in lower positions allows
at or near
for more leverage when pushing
waist level
the saw through the workpiece.
For shallow
Handle in lower positions allows
cuts made at
the user to apply increased
or near waist
downward force during shallow
level
cuts.
For cuts
Handle in higher positions
made below
reduce the amount of "bending
the waist,
over" by the user. Higher handle
as in
positions allow the user to apply
fl ooring
an increased downward force on
applications
the saw.
For cuts
Handle in higher positions reduce
made
the amount of extended reach
overhead,
by the user for overhead cuts.
as in
Higher handle positions allow
ceiling
the user to apply an increased
applications
upward force on the saw.
* These are only suggested positions; the actual
optimum cutting position may vary depending on
the actual application and user preference.
Cutting Large Panels
Fig. 13
Large panels and long boards sag or bend if they are
not correctly supported. If you attempt to cut without
leveling and properly supporting the workpiece,
the blade will tend to bind, causing KICKBACK.
Support large panels. Be sure to set the depth of
the cut so that you only cut through the workpiece,
not through the supports.
Ripping Wood
Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain. Select
the proper blade for your job. Use a rip fence for
rips 4" wide or less. To install the rip fence, slide
the bar through the rip fence slot in either side of
the shoe. The width of the cut is the distance from
the inside of the blade to the inside edge of the rip
fence. Adjust the rip fence for the desired width, and
lock the setting by tightening the rip fence screws.
When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp or tack
1" lumber to workpiece and use the inside edge of
the shoe as a guide.
Cross-Cutting Wood
Cross-cutting is cutting across the grain. Select the
proper blade for your job. Advance the saw slowly
to avoid splintering the wood.
Fig. 14
WARNING
To reduce the risk of electric
shock, check work area for hidden pipes and
wires before making pocket cuts.
Pocket Cutting
Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the workpiece
when it can not be cut from an edge. We recom-
mend using a Sawzall
®
reciprocating saw or jig saw
for this type of cut. However, if you must use a circu-
lar saw to make a pocket cut, USE EXTREME CAU-
TION. To maintain control of the saw during pocket
cutting, keep both hands on the saw (Fig. 15).
Fig. 15
9