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MV37 Halifax - plan 1
Designer: Luigi Volonte
Table No. 1
1) Fix on a flat board, 15 mm thick, 2 laths or plywood strips 4 mm thick, at a distance of 4 mm from each other, so as to fit in the keel I 3 in a straight and upright position.
In order to avoid any possible warping of the structure, fix with nails onto the board the small squares 14 leaning against the keel sides, as Indicated In fig, I, Fit the frames 1,,, 12 in the respective grooves on the keel 13, without glueing them, assemble the false deck 15 which must lean exactly on the bottom of the space on the frames and on the keel.
Assemble provisionally the fore deck 16, the central deck 17, the half-deck 18 and the dock 19 of Ihe quarter-deck, fixing them with pins. During the assembly, make sure that none of the various parts forces in the respective grooves, on the contrary it is advisable to have a slight play. Check the alignment of the structure: facing It, the deck lines must be
bent and must lie on different planes, but exactly parallel to each other. Possible small corrections can bo made retouching slightly the grooves. When you are sure that, looking at the structure from various sides, all the lines are correct, dismount completely and start again the assembly glueing the frames 1,,, 12 and the false deck 15 following the numerical
order. Care must bo taken that there are no warpings and that the frames, looking down on the structure, form a right angle with the keel (fig, 2),
2) Fit tightly on the structure and glue the sectors 16, 17, 18 and 19 forming the complete dock and fix them with pins driven provisionally In the middle and at the sides, in correspondence of the grooves with the frames; strengthen the glueings under the deck, glueing, if that is the case, pieces of strip (fig, 3),
3) Glue the supports 20 for the planking afore, on the hull sides and against the frame 1 (fig, 4), I It and glue behind the frame 12 the support 21 of the planking and the base 22 of the transom (fig. 5). Glue the transom 23 fitting In the special grooves the protrusions of the deck 19 and of the base 22; glue the connection blocs 24 under the base andón the
support 21. In order to follow the bending of the base it is advisable to cut the block 24 into 4 sectors and to glue 2 of them on each side, leaving in the middle an empty space for the rudder. Glue the strips 25 on the fore side of the trensom 23 for the support of the planking astern.
4) Preparation of the structure for the assembly of the first planking. Adjust the fore frames and the relative supports 20 trimming the fore edge of the frames without touching the original profile corresponding to the back edge. Repeat the same operation on the stern frames: now It is Ihe back edge that must be trimmed off. Care must be taken that the
low part of the Inst 2 frames must be strongly chamfered because in this part of the hull, the connection lines with the keel are very thin, while under the transom the plan-king assumes a very narrow bending (ficj, 7 and 8), Check that the lines of the planking are regular, laying a strip on the frames in various positions. The side surfaces of the blocks 24
must be adjusted too, giving them a bonding, which must be the natural continuation of the profile of the frame 12.
5) The planking consists in two layers of strips: the first of soft wood 1, 5 »rim thick, the second made of narrower and thinner strips, of precious wood and different colours. Before being applied the strips must be soaked for about half an hour. This will make them more flexible. They must then be applied one at a lime, alternatively on one side and on the
oilier of the structure, so as to avoid any possible warping of the hull, caused by the tension of the strips while they got dry. Besides being glued onto the frames, the strips must be glued to each other' and fastened with little nails only partially driven In, so as to take them out when the sheathing is over. Before glueing a strip check Its regular line, laying it
on the frames; should a frame be too narrow or too large, insert some pieces of thin lath under the strip, or file the frame.
6) First planking. Glue the first strip 26 with the upper side at the edge of the upper line of the central deck 17. Glue a second entire strip on the first one, then complete the sheathing of the upper deck with other strips, letting them stick some millimetres out of the frames. Take care that the sheathing on the prow consists of 2 strips turning around the
prow without being broken off and they stop about 8 mm beyond the step existing between the prow deck and the central deck (fig. 9 «and 10). Complete the lower part of the sheathing; now the strips must be chamfered towards the prow starting from the frames 4-5. In other words the strips must be progressively reduced in width till the end leaning
against the keel is 3 mm wide. In fact, starting from the middle towards the prow the frames get narrower and narrower though they must always contain the same number of strips. It is therefore necessary to reduce their width. Astern the strips must not be chamfered because the planking goes on under the frames too and ends flat on the keel (fig. I 1-
12). Remove all the nails and sand the surface of the planking with rough-grained sandpaper rolled around a flat or curved piece of wood, according to the position of the hull to be adjusted. In case of hollows, fill them with putty and level. At stern the strips leaning on the keel must be adjusted reducing their thickness to zero, so as to have an uninterrupted
surface keel/planking. Adjust the whole transom and sheathe the connection blocks 24 with the strips 27 placed horizontally. Do not touch, for the time being, the upper part of the planking.
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