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appliances).
symptom
Pilot will not light. Makes
Wiring: short, loose, or damaged
noise with no spark at
connections
pilot burner.
(poor fl ame rectifi cation).
No signal from remote with no
pilot ignition.
Poor grounding.
Improper switch wiring.
Dirty, painted, or damaged pilot
and/or dirty sensor rod.
Pilot sparks but will
Gas supply.
not light.
Out of propane gas.
Pilot supply line may contain
air.
Incorrect wiring / grounding.
Receiver (if equipped).
Valve.
Burner continues to
Short or loose connection in
spark and pilot lights
sensor rod.
but main burner
does not light.
Dirty, painted, or damaged
pilot assembly components.
Remote wall switch
Wall switch mounted upside
is in "off" position;
down.
burner comes on.
Remote wall switch and/or
wire is grounding.
Faulty wire
Remote and / or
Remote controls lights but
receiver is not
no spark or fl ame. (Remote is
functioning properly.
locked out).
Receiver or remote has low battery.
Appliance functions but does not
respond to receiver / remote
Error with synchronizing.
Remote too far away from receiver.
Wire connector pins are bent.
Valve wiring is damaged.
symptom
Lights or blower
Control module switch in
-
Check that venting is installed correctly.
-
Room is in negative pressure; increase fresh air supply.
problem
-
Verify the thermocouple/sensor is clean and the wiring is undamaged.
-
Verify the interrupter block is not damaged or too tight. Verify
connections from pilot assembly are tight; also verify the connections
are not grounding out to any metal. (Remember, the fl ame carries the
rectifi cation current, not the gas. If fl ame lifts from pilot hood, the circuit
is broken. A wrong orifi ce or too high of an inlet pressure can cause the
pilot fl ame to lift)*. The sensor rod may need cleaning.
-
Reprogram receiver code.
-
Replace receiver.
-
Verify the valve / pilot assembly are properly grounded
-
Troubleshoot the system with the simplest on/off switch.
-
Clean sensor rod with a green Scotch-Brite™ pad to remove any
contamination that may have accumulated. Verify continuity with
multimeter with ohms set at the lowest range.
-
Verify that the incoming gas line ball valve is "open".
-
Verify that the inlet pressure reading is within acceptable
limits, inlet pressures must not exceed 13" W.C. (32.4mb).
-
Fill the tank.
-
Repeat ignition process several times or purge the pilot
supply line.
-
Ensure correct polarity of wiring of thermocouple (if
equipped).
-
Verify pilot assembly / valve are properly grounded.
-
Reset program: hold reset button on receiver and wait for 2
beeps. Release after second beep. Press small fl ame button
on remote within 20 seconds, you will hear an additional
beep (this signals a successful reset).
-
Replace receiver.
-
Check valve and replace if necessary (Do not to overtighten
thermocouple).
-
Verify all connections. Verify the connections from the pilot
assembly are tight. Also, verify these connections are not
grounding out to any metal.
-
Clean using a green Scotch-Brite™ pad to remove any
contamination that may have accumulated on the sensor
rod, pilot hood, ignitor, or fl ame sensor. Verify continuity with
multimeter with ohms set at the lowest range.
-
Reverse.
-
Replace.
-
Check for ground (short); repair ground or replace wire.
-
Replace.
-
Reset by turning power source off then on.
-
Replace batteries.
-
Ensure appliance is being operated by the same device that turned it
on. Remote controls function if appliance was turned on by remote.
Receiver controls function if appliance was turned on by receiver.
-
Reset receiver and remote.
-
Refer to "wiring diagram" section.
-
Straighten pins.
-
Replace valve.
problem
-
Verify ON/OFF switch is in the "I" position which denotes on.
troubleshooting (electronic)
test solution
note:
If back up batteries are installed, they must also be removed to
re-program
test solution
EN
71
W415-2881 / C / 03.07.22
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