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Sizzling/Gurgling - water dripping on the heater during
defrost cycle
Popping - contraction/expansion of inside walls, especially
during initial cool-down
Water running - may be heard when water melts during the
defrost cycle and runs into the drain pan
Creaking/Cracking - occurs as ice is being ejected from the
ice maker mold.
The doors will not close completely
Check the following:
Are food packages blocking the door open?
Are all bins and shelves pushed back into the correct
positions?
The doors are difficult to open
WARNING
Explosion Hazard
Use nonflammable cleaner.
Failure to do so can result in death, explosion, or fire.
Are the gaskets dirty or sticky? Clean gaskets with mild
soap and warm water.
Has the door been opened and closed within the last few
seconds? Wait at least 30 seconds to reopen the doors.
Temperature and Moisture
Temperature is too warm
Check the following:
Are the air vents blocked in either compartment?
Are the door(s) opened often?
Has a large amount of food just been added to the refrigerator
or freezer?
Are the controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions?
There is interior moisture buildup
NOTE: Some moisture is normal.
Are the air vents blocked in the refrigerator?
Are the door(s) opened often?
Is the room humid?
Are the controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions?
Was an automatic self-defrost cycle completed?
Items in meat pan/crisper are freezing
The temperature inside the meat pan/crisper may become too
cold, especially when using some additional control panel
features. Adjust the meat pan control to the closed setting.
Ice and Water
The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice
Is the ice maker wire shutoff arm or switch (depending on
models) in the OFF position?
Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator turned on?
Has the ice maker just been installed? Is the freezer
temperature cold enough to produce ice? Wait 24 hours
after ice maker hookup for ice production to begin. Allow
3 days after ice production begins to completely fill ice
container.
Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice
been produced? Make sure your refrigerator has been
connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is
turned on.
Has a large amount of ice just been removed? Allow
24 hours for ice maker to produce more ice.
Is there a water filter installed on the refrigerator? The filter
may be clogged or installed incorrectly.
Is an ice cube jammed in the ice maker ejector arm?
For models with an interior ice bin, remove the ice from the
ejector arm with a plastic utensil.
Is a reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to
your cold water supply? See "Water Supply Requirements"
in the Installation Instructions.
The ice cubes are hollow or small
This is an indication of low water pressure.
Check the following:
Is the water shutoff valve fully open?
Are there kinks in the water lines that could restrict water
flow?
If you are using a water filter, remove the filter and operate the
dispenser. If water flow increases, the filter is clogged or
incorrectly installed.
Is a reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to
your cold water supply? See "Water Supply Requirements"
in the Installation Instructions.
If you still have questions regarding your water pressure, call a
licensed, qualified plumber.
Off-taste, odor or gray color in the ice
Check the following:
Are the plumbing connections new, causing discolored or off-
flavored ice?
Have the ice cubes been stored too long?
Does the freezer and ice bin need to be cleaned?
Has food in the freezer or refrigerator been wrapped properly?
Does the water contain minerals (such as sulfur)? A filter
may need to be installed to remove the minerals.
Is there a water filter installed on the refrigerator? Gray or
dark discoloration in ice indicates that the water filtration
system needs additional flushing.
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