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WARNING
Electrical Shock Hazard
Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
Do not remove ground prong.
Do not use an adapter.
Do not use an extension cord.
Failure to follow these instructions can result in death,
fire, or electrical shock.
Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded
3 prong outlet.
Is a light bulb loose in the socket or burned out? See
"Changing the Light Bulb."
There is water in the defrost drain pan (on some models)
Is the freezer defrosting? The water will evaporate. It is
normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
Is it more humid than normal? When it is humid, expect that
the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate.
The motor seems to run too much
Is there excessive frost or a package keeping the door
from closing? Defrost and clean the freezer, or move the
package so the door closes properly.
Is the room temperature hotter than normal? The motor will
run longer under warm conditions. At normal room
temperatures, your motor will run about 40% to 80% of the
time. Under warmer conditions, it will run even more.
Has a large amount of food just been added to the
freezer? Adding a large amount of food warms the freezer.
The motor normally will run longer to cool the freezer back
down.
Is the door opened often? The motor will run longer when
this occurs. Conserve energy by getting all items out at one
time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as soon as
possible.
Is the control set correctly for the surrounding conditions?
See "Using the Control."
Is the door completely closed? Push the door firmly shut. If
it will not shut all the way, see "The door will not close
completely or is difficult to open" later in this section.
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Are the condenser coils dirty (on some models)? This
blocks air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean
the condenser coils. See "Freezer Care."
Is the door gasket sealed all the way around? Contact a
qualified person or a technician.
Is there enough air circulation space around the freezer?
See "Location Requirements."
NOTE: If the problem is not due to any of the above,
remember that your new freezer will run longer than your old
one due to its high-efficiency motor.
The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice
(on some models)
Has the ice maker just been installed? Wait 72 hours for full
ice production to begin. Once your freezer is cooled, the ice
maker should produce 70-120 cubes every 24 hours.
Is the freezer temperature cold enough to produce ice?
Wait 24 hours after hookup for ice production. See "Using the
Control."
Is the wire shutoff arm in the OFF (arm up) position? Lower
the wire shutoff arm to the ON (arm down) position. See "Ice
Maker."
Is the water line shutoff valve to the freezer turned on?
Turn on the water valve. See "Connect the Water Supply."
Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice
been produced? Be sure your freezer has been connected to
a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is turned on. See
"Connect the Water Supply."
Is an ice cube jammed in the ejector arm? Remove the ice
from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. See "Ice Maker."
Has a large amount of ice just been removed? Allow
24 hours for ice maker to produce more ice.
Is the control set correctly? If too little ice is produced, see
"Using the Control."
NOTE: If not due to any of the above, there may be a problem
with the water line. Call for service.
Off-taste, odor or gray color in the ice (on some models)
Are the plumbing connections new, causing discolored or
off-flavored ice? Discard the first few batches of ice.
Have the ice cubes been stored too long? Throw old ice
away and make a new supply.
WARNING
Explosion Hazard
Use nonflammable cleaner.
Failure to do so can result in death, explosion, or fire.
Do the freezer and ice bin need to be cleaned? See
"Freezer Care."
Does the water contain minerals (such as sulfur)? A filter
may need to be installed to remove the minerals.
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